G. Fred is a douche. I met him at a PBS banquet back in the 90's sitting in the hotel bar one evening. his thoughts on proper shooting form for hunting caused my shooting nothing but harm. I've heard that the "Masters of the Barebow" videos are good, but have not seen them.
Shooting my recurve
- Thread starter Boarhead
- Start date
Gordo
Senior Member
Copy that.
A part of me is afraid to read much. Just the thought of it brings back memories of reading into my golf swing. I don't play golf anymore.....
A part of me is afraid to read much. Just the thought of it brings back memories of reading into my golf swing. I don't play golf anymore.....
Gordo
Senior Member
Well, we are only a couple weeks from the end of season, but I'm still shooting everyday and am happy with how things are going.
I've been shooting single arrows when practiceing for the past couple months. I Think it's about time to order some more arrows and get my muscle memory dialed in by doing a bit more 'quantity' shooting.
Feel like I can pull it off without developing bad habits.
I'd love to be shooting decent practice groups at 50 yards going into next season. It'd made 25 and under chip shots. That could be a pipe dream. We'll find out.
Next order of business other then shooting daily: ordering some more arrows and hanging a practice stand in my back yard.
Either way, shooting arrows everyday has been good for my head. Doesn't get much more relaxing.
I'm still not sure I'm shooting the perfect arrow for my set up.
50lb bear super grizz.
I've teatered between 400 and 500 spine arrows and feel like the 400 spines 'recover' a lot quicker.
I'd say I'm pulling my bow just short of 29 inches so 'should' be getting 50-53lbs out of it.
Any tips on choosing the right shafts and overall arrow weight could help me out.
My set up now kills deer but I feel like I could 'dial it in' better:
School me up!
I've never tinkered with arrow building
I've been shooting single arrows when practiceing for the past couple months. I Think it's about time to order some more arrows and get my muscle memory dialed in by doing a bit more 'quantity' shooting.
Feel like I can pull it off without developing bad habits.
I'd love to be shooting decent practice groups at 50 yards going into next season. It'd made 25 and under chip shots. That could be a pipe dream. We'll find out.
Next order of business other then shooting daily: ordering some more arrows and hanging a practice stand in my back yard.
Either way, shooting arrows everyday has been good for my head. Doesn't get much more relaxing.
I'm still not sure I'm shooting the perfect arrow for my set up.
50lb bear super grizz.
I've teatered between 400 and 500 spine arrows and feel like the 400 spines 'recover' a lot quicker.
I'd say I'm pulling my bow just short of 29 inches so 'should' be getting 50-53lbs out of it.
Any tips on choosing the right shafts and overall arrow weight could help me out.
My set up now kills deer but I feel like I could 'dial it in' better:
School me up!
I've never tinkered with arrow building
Gordo
Senior Member
I read a good amount into that but need to dive into it.
Found this write up a while back and seems like a great guide.
http://www.bestrecurvebowguide.com/tuning-your-recurve-bow-part-3/
Found this write up a while back and seems like a great guide.
http://www.bestrecurvebowguide.com/tuning-your-recurve-bow-part-3/
Gordo. These are the best articles on the web for a recurve guy who's tuning. Live by this
http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html
http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html
Bare shafting is the way to go, you can experiment with both weight of the tip and length of the shaft. Once you have a bare shaft flying great flecthing is just icing on the cake. there are also brass inserts you can use to add weight, they come in 50 and 100 grain. This is helpful if you like a heavy arrow. it can also help to use a more standard weight point like 125 grain where you have a better selection of broad heads. For hunting I use a stiffer shaft and put more weight on the end to get the spine that flies best.
Diablo,
I just looked at your link that is exactly how I tune a bow. I think it is even the directions I first followed many years ago.
I just looked at your link that is exactly how I tune a bow. I think it is even the directions I first followed many years ago.
Lots of good info guys,i know Stache is gonna be working on his arrows soon,that info will be a big help for anyone getting into it..
OO2
Well-Known Member
Wow that's info overload! When I bought my bow a while back I just bought arrows and called it a day. Looks like I have some work ahead of myself if I want to use it next season.
I forgot to add Gordo I have a selection of brass inserts and points. I will be making it down south as soon as I can walk. Probably mid march Hocking county 25 miles from Athens I could bring some inserts and points down. Or you can PM me an address and a can send a few samples.
Yes it's important stuff. If your not tuned correctly you will have issues. Including penetration issues when the moment of truth comes around.
Gordo
Senior Member
Great info.
I'm excited to Mess with the weight up front. Need to get some more field points that vary.
I stripped a couple arrows down to bare shaft and shot a couple yesterday.
Seems like the arrow is angling down and the ass end is pushing out to the right when in flight. Going to adjust the knock first and then see where I'm at.
That's with a gold tip traditional 400 with 100 grain field point. I have to check arrow length, but I believe I'm at 29.5 and have a half inch of play when I'm maxed out. Took some video of my shooting and reviewed it slow mow to confirm.
I also need to strip the material on my shelf and replace it. Should really do that first. It's worn as shit and could be effecting the knock point height.
I was stepping back at 40 yards plus with the bare shafts and watching the arrow flight.
When all is perfect, that bare shaft should be flying perfect out to any yardage, correcto?
It's amazing what a broad head and fletching does to stabilize an arrow. What I was hunting with this year is still hitting dead nuts.
I'm excited to Mess with the weight up front. Need to get some more field points that vary.
I stripped a couple arrows down to bare shaft and shot a couple yesterday.
Seems like the arrow is angling down and the ass end is pushing out to the right when in flight. Going to adjust the knock first and then see where I'm at.
That's with a gold tip traditional 400 with 100 grain field point. I have to check arrow length, but I believe I'm at 29.5 and have a half inch of play when I'm maxed out. Took some video of my shooting and reviewed it slow mow to confirm.
I also need to strip the material on my shelf and replace it. Should really do that first. It's worn as shit and could be effecting the knock point height.
I was stepping back at 40 yards plus with the bare shafts and watching the arrow flight.
When all is perfect, that bare shaft should be flying perfect out to any yardage, correcto?
It's amazing what a broad head and fletching does to stabilize an arrow. What I was hunting with this year is still hitting dead nuts.
Gordo
Senior Member
Looking into the screw in weights for the inserts now.
Once I have my target weight up front, I can achieve it useing anything I want as long as that weight all equals out to the same? Say I have 250 grains shooting great. I could use a 100 grain insert along with a 150 grain broadhead and be good. Or I could use a 100 grain broadhead with a 150 grain insert and still be good?
Seems like that 'should' be the case
Milo
Tatonka guide.
- 8,188
- 171
the short answer is yes. You want the pdp weight system. Be sure to get the adapter that screws into the back of the insert. You will want to get the installation tool also. I'm betting your overspined with that setup currently. I'd put 50 grains up front and see what changes. I will post some pictures of them for you
Last edited:
Gordo
Senior Member
OO2
Well-Known Member
Did ya ever get your bow tuned Gordo?
I finally worked some more on my tuning in April.
After shooting the last several years i am drawing 30 inches so am actually drawing around 53 lbs and have changed to the Carbon Express Heritage 250s as they tuned best bareshaft shooting with 150 grain tips and ended up at 30.5 inches on arrow length.
I also changed over to the Woodsman Elite 150 grain broadheads,man they are really nice broadheads,all one piece steel,they spin like a top and fly dead on,also you can get them scary sharp really fast.
Looking forward to trying them out on deer this Fall.
Now time to really amp up my shooting throughout the summer.
Been shooting out of the treestand alot at tennis balls and pretty happy where i am at 20 and 25 yards,just have to keep at it.
The shot in the target was 15 yds with the one of my new broadheads,i really like the fur tracers on the arrows also,you can really see where they hit,really nice to have if you like to shoot darker feathers.
Always nice when shooting out of the stand to have Lisa along to pull arrows. Lol
I finally worked some more on my tuning in April.
After shooting the last several years i am drawing 30 inches so am actually drawing around 53 lbs and have changed to the Carbon Express Heritage 250s as they tuned best bareshaft shooting with 150 grain tips and ended up at 30.5 inches on arrow length.
I also changed over to the Woodsman Elite 150 grain broadheads,man they are really nice broadheads,all one piece steel,they spin like a top and fly dead on,also you can get them scary sharp really fast.
Looking forward to trying them out on deer this Fall.
Now time to really amp up my shooting throughout the summer.
Been shooting out of the treestand alot at tennis balls and pretty happy where i am at 20 and 25 yards,just have to keep at it.
The shot in the target was 15 yds with the one of my new broadheads,i really like the fur tracers on the arrows also,you can really see where they hit,really nice to have if you like to shoot darker feathers.
Always nice when shooting out of the stand to have Lisa along to pull arrows. Lol