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Shotgun barrel

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Venefikus

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Lakewood
Full disclosure: I over think everything.

So I'm still new to hunting, and am looking at going from a remington 870 to something a bit nicer. I was looking at a benelli nova, but it has a 24' barrel. What limitations would happen when I go from a 28 to a 24 inch barrel? Or am I just over thinking, I would like to get into waterfowl hunting.
 
Jackalope

Jackalope

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24s are more for turkey mostly due to maneuverability. The 28 gives you a tiny bit more velocity but the main benefit is the longer sight picture for fast moving birds. For waterfowl it seems the standard is 26 or 28. You should be able to find that nova in both lengths.
 
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Venefikus

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Lakewood
I kind of thought that was the case. I found a used one at cabellas that was 390$ but I liked the camo finish on it and was leaning towards that one. I want a gun that as I learn to hunt and try different game I can take with me. And know that when it comes to turkey, they have keen eyesight. Will they notice a black polymer shotgun?
 
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Jackalope

Jackalope

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Venefikus said:
I kind of thought that was the case. I found a used one at cabellas that was 390$ but I liked the camo finish on it and was leaning towards that one. I want a gun that as I learn to hunt and try different game I can take with me. And know that when it comes to turkey, they have keen eyesight. Will they notice a black polymer shotgun?
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Turkeys care more about movement than camo. You can get the one with the 24 and then pick up a waterfowl barrel in 26 or 28 inch also. Just check the price on that barrel first because I have a feeling it'll be pricy.
 
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jagermeister

jagermeister

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The longer barrels (26 and 28) also swing much better than the 24" barrel, at least in my experience. It's hard to explain in text... But a shorter gun will seem more "jumpy" and erratic when swinging on flying birds. The longer barreled guns will swing much more smooth and fluid in my opinion. If waterfowl is your end goal, don't buy a 24" barrel gun just because you like the camo finish. It won't matter what the gun looks like if you struggle to consistently hit the birds.
 
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Venefikus

Member
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Lakewood
jagermeister said:
The longer barrels (26 and 28) also swing much better than the 24" barrel, at least in my experience. It's hard to explain in text... But a shorter gun will seem more "jumpy" and erratic when swinging on flying birds. The longer barreled guns will swing much more smooth and fluid in my opinion. If waterfowl is your end goal, don't buy a 24" barrel gun just because you like the camo finish. It won't matter what the gun looks like if you struggle to consistently hit the birds.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I'm looking for something multi purposed that I could take reasonably well to do multiple things.

I also appreciate the confirmation that camo on guns doesn't make a huge difference.
 
jagermeister

jagermeister

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Venefikus said:
Thank you, I'm looking for something multi purposed that I could take reasonably well to do multiple things.

I also appreciate the confirmation that camo on guns doesn't make a huge difference.
Click to expand...
I'd say if versatile is what you want, try to find something with a 26" barrel. And yea, camo is nice... But definitely not a necessity. I've made a lot of critters hit the frying pan and the grill with a all matte black shotgun.
 
triple_duece

triple_duece

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I don’t like the shorter barrels. I’ve hunted w friends in the duck blind w short barrels and told them don’t bring it again. The muzzle blast is worse on your partners. I’m old school and had 30+ inch barrels and find the 28 to be the sweet spot for most applications. Just my opinion.
 
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Venefikus

Member
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Lakewood
Follow up questions: The shotgun came with a couple chokes. Some of them say "steel ok", if they're ok for steel can you also shoot lead through them? Also what happens if you shoot without a choke in it? Does it affect the threads? And finally, what should I use when shooting rifled slugs?
 
Jackalope

Jackalope

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Venefikus said:
Follow up questions: The shotgun came with a couple chokes. Some of them say "steel ok", if they're ok for steel can you also shoot lead through them? Also what happens if you shoot without a choke in it? Does it affect the threads? And finally, what should I use when shooting rifled slugs?
Click to expand...

What tracker said. Steel is harder than lead and doesn't compress when constricted like lead does. This is why chokes have to be rated for steel, and if they are then by virtue they're good for lead. Chokes also have to be rated for hevi shot his is a bismuth material I believe. You'll only find that rating in an aftermarket choke.

Never shoot it without a choke screwed in. Besides what tracker said about blowing up the barrel it will also strip the threads.

As for rifled slugs if it came with a choke named Cyl for cylinder use that, if not then use the imp for improved.

Did the gun come with any shims for the stock?
 
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Venefikus

Member
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Lakewood
Jackalope said:
What tracker said. Steel is harder than lead and doesn't compress when constricted like lead does. This is why chokes have to be rated for steel, and if they are then by virtue they're good for lead. Chokes also have to be rated for hevi shot his is a bismuth material I believe. You'll only find that rating in an aftermarket choke.

Never shoot it without a choke screwed in. Besides what tracker said about blowing up the barrel it will also strip the threads.

As for rifled slugs if it came with a choke named Cyl for cylinder use that, if not then use the imp for improved.

Did the gun come with any shims for the stock?
Click to expand...

It came with an improved, modified, and full chokes.

No shims, but unfortunately the receiver and stock are one piece so shims aren't an option.
 
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