Another Damn Generator Question.

[Jackalope]

I have an older Generac 5k generator. It has a couple of standard plugs but the two I'm interested in is a L5-30 120V, and a L14-20 120/240V. I'm going to put a plug on the main with a disconnect lockout. The question becomes which one should I go with.

With the L14-20 I can feed 240v to the main but I'm regulated to 20 amps.
With the L5-30 I can feed 120v to the main and I'm regulated to 30 amps.

With generators however watts matter more and the L5 is limited to 3750 watts, while the L14 is limited to 5,000 watts. The genny is a 5k running 6.5K peak.

I don't plan to run any 220v appliances only 120. mostly freezers for a period of time, some lights and a window AC unit long enough to cool a room down for sleeping.

My 3 freezers have amp ratings of 5a, 8.5a, and 4.5 amps respectfully for a total of 18 amps peak. Which is real close to that 20a limit for the L14 but only half the watts available at 2,600.

A120v appliance on a 120V circuit being fed by a 240 supply is only pulling half the watts over the supply circuit breaker.

So. Where I'm struggling is with amperage. Those appliances total 18a peak. Amperage does not half when a 120 circuit is fed by a 240 supply, but watts do. I think that's a correct statement? So it looks like I can go 120v 30A circuit limited to 3,750 watts and be fine on Amps with 1,000 or so watt capacity remaining.. Or go 220v 20 amp circuit and be at my limit on amps but have 2,600 watts to spare.

I'll shut-up now as I'm sure that's confusing enough as my brain is already in a circular logic loop.

 

[Jackalope]

ORRRRRR. Should I wire in the L5 30a 120v to the house then run individual cords to the freezers and plug them in to the two standard outlets on the genny that supply 120v 20a on their own push button fuse.

 

[Jackalope]

Speaking of that I need to order a couple of those push button fuses to have on hand.

And a couple spare plugs in the event I have to run 2cycle gas siphoned from the boat through that bitch

 

[Jackalope]

.



No rush on this project BTW..

 

[finelyshedded]

It’s a great idea that you’re getting out ahead of this thing.
I just run my freezers and fridges 90% of the time(2 20 amp circuits) and switch off temporarily if I need to use microwave or lighting for showers then it’s right back to freezers and fridge and candles.

 

[Quantum673]

I would think the 10 extra amps would be better for your situation. I do like the idea of running both.

 

["J"]

I’m running the 120/204 20a with the 4.5kw I can a lot of my 110 circuits including 2 refrigerators and one freezer. Of course I don’t power everything at once, but the refrigerators and freezer as well as lights aren’t an issue.

 

[Isaacorps]

Amps absolutely are halved by doubling your voltage. 1,200 watts at 120v is 10 amps. 1,200 watts at 240 volts is 5 amps. My .02 is use the 20A 240v to feed your main. It also gives you the added bonus of feeding both busses in your panel so you can pick and choose any circuits to turn on and off without jockeying breakers around. I would also use the 30A 120v as needed to plug things in via extension cords as needed. You can run a lot of shit on 30A 120V. Get you a splitter like this…

30 Amp to 110 Adapter L5-30P to LIT 3-Way Outlet Splitter by Journeyman Pro - 125 Volt, 30A to 15A, 3-Prong Locking Triple Tap 5-15R for RV Generators (2FT - L5-30P to LIT 3-WAY 15A) https://a.co/d/aQ3Ruy7

 

[Jackalope]

Amps absolutely are halved by doubling your voltage. 1,200 watts at 120v is 10 amps. 1,200 watts at 240 volts is 5 amps. My .02 is use the 20A 240v to feed your main. It also gives you the added bonus of feeding both busses in your panel so you can pick and choose any circuits to turn on and off without jockeying breakers around. I would also use the 30A 120v as needed to plug things in via extension cords as needed. You can run a lot of shit on 30A 120V. Get you a splitter like this…
View attachment 160280
30 Amp to 110 Adapter L5-30P to LIT 3-Way Outlet Splitter by Journeyman Pro - 125 Volt, 30A to 15A, 3-Prong Locking Triple Tap 5-15R for RV Generators (2FT - L5-30P to LIT 3-WAY 15A) https://a.co/d/aQ3Ruy7

I appreciate the advice man. I like it. Great idea in the dongle. I have one like that for a standard wall socket. I remembered that watts halved based on the formula of Watts = Voltage X Amps but wasn't sure if it was the same for amps. I could technically run all three freezers and the small 1500 btu ac unit off the 30a plug as that would be 27a peak. That's peak startup load so they'll probably run at far less than that. Then I can run quite a few hard-wired house items like lights off the 20a feed to the house as it should have about 1,800 watts remaining. I think all of my led can lights are around 9 watts each.

Appreciate it buddy. Now if I can find an old car muffler to weld on to this old generators exhaust flange i'd be set. . Neighbors gonna hate my ass if we have an extended outage. .

 

[Jackalope]

One more. Outdoor metered bottom feed load center. Everything goes out the back or the bottom. The bottom is out of room for a knockout as the panel feeds a detached garage, one outdoor sub panel, and two different indoor sub panels. I want to install a siemens whole home surge protector, this generator hookup, and a pool sub panel box with a timer outside off that panel. There aren't any knockouts on the sides, I assume this is to remain watertight, but I got to thinking, it may be against code for an outdoor panel to have side knockouts. But I also see Siemens has an outdoor bottom fed panel with knockout rings on the side they just are pressed and have to be drilled. Question being, can I drill three new nockouts on the side and use liquid-tight conduit to these new items? I think I can based on the siemens panel but want to check my sanity.

 

[P8riot]

 

[CJD3]

Quite honestly, I don't know shit about what to use there Joe. . .

But I do know a mostly empty freezer runs more often than a mostly full one. Freeze up some 1 gal jugs of drinking water to fill up any big spaces. You can replace em with meat as the hurricane season ends and hunting season ramps up.
Never hurts to have big ice or coffee water.

 

[giles]

One more. Outdoor metered bottom feed load center. Everything goes out the back or the bottom. The bottom is out of room for a knockout as the panel feeds a detached garage, one outdoor sub panel, and two different indoor sub panels. I want to install a siemens whole home surge protector, this generator hookup, and a pool sub panel box with a timer outside off that panel. There aren't any knockouts on the sides, I assume this is to remain watertight, but I got to thinking, it may be against code for an outdoor panel to have side knockouts. But I also see Siemens has an outdoor bottom fed panel with knockout rings on the side they just are pressed and have to be drilled. Question being, can I drill three new nockouts on the side and use liquid-tight conduit to these new items? I think I can based on the siemens panel but want to check my sanity.

AEP doesn't allow you to modify the box at all. It has nothing to do with being water tight. These boxes get wet as is and aren't sealed. So I guess I'm saying that you need to check with your local company/inspector.

 

[Isaacorps]

One more. Outdoor metered bottom feed load center. Everything goes out the back or the bottom. The bottom is out of room for a knockout as the panel feeds a detached garage, one outdoor sub panel, and two different indoor sub panels. I want to install a siemens whole home surge protector, this generator hookup, and a pool sub panel box with a timer outside off that panel. There aren't any knockouts on the sides, I assume this is to remain watertight, but I got to thinking, it may be against code for an outdoor panel to have side knockouts. But I also see Siemens has an outdoor bottom fed panel with knockout rings on the side they just are pressed and have to be drilled. Question being, can I drill three new nockouts on the side and use liquid-tight conduit to these new items? I think I can based on the siemens panel but want to check my sanity.

You can tap new holes in the side of the load center as long as they are below the buss/any energized parts. You’ll notice that the bottom of the load center has weep holes in it for that very reason. @giles is correct, don’t mess with the meter can if it’s a stand alone can. If it’s metered load center you can modify the load center (customer) side

 

[Isaacorps]

I appreciate the advice man. I like it. Great idea in the dongle. I have one like that for a standard wall socket. I remembered that watts halved based on the formula of Watts = Voltage X Amps but wasn't sure if it was the same for amps. I could technically run all three freezers and the small 1500 btu ac unit off the 30a plug as that would be 27a peak. That's peak startup load so they'll probably run at far less than that. Then I can run quite a few hard-wired house items like lights off the 20a feed to the house as it should have about 1,800 watts remaining. I think all of my led can lights are around 9 watts each.

Appreciate it buddy. Now if I can find an old car muffler to weld on to this old generators exhaust flange i'd be set. . Neighbors gonna hate my ass if we have an extended outage. .

Any time. We run our cabin on 30A 120V. It’s nothing to have the window AC, microwave, coffee pot, tv, lights, and fan all going simultaneously. Never skips a beat. 30 amps is a lot when it comes to general household items

 

[Jackalope]

You can tap new holes in the side of the load center as long as they are below the buss/any energized parts. You’ll notice that the bottom of the load center has weep holes in it for that very reason. @giles is correct, don’t mess with the meter can if it’s a stand alone can. If it’s metered load center you can modify the load center (customer) side

Cool thanks. It's a metered load center just like this siemens box except without the factory side knockouts.

 

[Isaacorps]

Cool thanks. It's a metered load center just like this siemens box except without the factory side knockouts.

View attachment 160293

Tap away below the buss bars

 

["J"]

Amps absolutely are halved by doubling your voltage. 1,200 watts at 120v is 10 amps. 1,200 watts at 240 volts is 5 amps. My .02 is use the 20A 240v to feed your main. It also gives you the added bonus of feeding both busses in your panel so you can pick and choose any circuits to turn on and off without jockeying breakers around. I would also use the 30A 120v as needed to plug things in via extension cords as needed. You can run a lot of shit on 30A 120V. Get you a splitter like this…
View attachment 160280
30 Amp to 110 Adapter L5-30P to LIT 3-Way Outlet Splitter by Journeyman Pro - 125 Volt, 30A to 15A, 3-Prong Locking Triple Tap 5-15R for RV Generators (2FT - L5-30P to LIT 3-WAY 15A) https://a.co/d/aQ3Ruy7

I started with one of these plugs a couple years ago. Used it a couple times. But for the hassle wasn’t worth it, having too run extension cords and pulling out the refrigerator and plugging it in. Definitely worth it too have it for a backup though…

 

[Isaacorps]

I started with one of these plugs a couple years ago. Used it a couple times. But for the hassle wasn’t worth it, having too run extension cords and pulling out the refrigerator and plugging it in. Definitely worth it too have it for a backup though…

Yeah I definitely wouldn’t want it to be the primary setup. In Joe’s case it’s just in addition to the main setup he’s going with to maximimize his generator’s output.

 

[Jackalope]

I think what I'm going to do is like Isaac said and use the 240v 20a on the genny for house power. Then use the dongle on the 30a 120v to power two of the freezers with easy plug access (9.5A total) and the small window AC (9A).

The kitchen refrigerator (8.5A) is a hard plug to get to so it'll stay on house power. That leaves plenty of room for small draw items like lights which are all LED.

For the genny box on the house I'm going to go 30A (L14-30P) and lop the head off the genny side of the cord and put on a L14-20P. Gives me room later to upgrade the genny to 30a 240v and not have to redo the box.

I'm on the fence about going ahead and putting a 30a breaker in the load center or go with 20a to match the genny. (Either way I'm going 10 gauge to the load center) If I go 30a I won't have to change it later but I'll be relying on the 20a push button circuit breaker on the genny which is notoriously not a reliable breaker. I think I'll go 20a breaker in the load center as I feel more comfortable with that. If I get hit by a truck someone will figure it out after their 30a genny keeps popping the breaker.