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Super duty rocker panels and cab corners

hickslawns

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Any of our welders here use adhesive? Maybe @Quantum673 in his auto renovation of the El Camino? @Buckmaster maybe?

My cab corners and rocker panels for our F350 showed up. I'm impressed. They look better than I expected. Appears many of these seams are adhered and spot welded from the factory. I did my research. There are adhesives for low impact and for high impact/structural strength. I know I need the more expensive stuff for rockers. 3M 07333 is what I'm looking at. Anyone use it? Long term impressions? Applications issues? I'm looking forward to trying it.
 
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bigten05

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knox county ohio
ive used multiple 2 part epoxys on body work, they all work good and they wont come apart hell ive even used them on puting new bed sides on. make sure the area is cleaned up good and you get one that gives you enough time to work with before it sets up.
 
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Quantum673

Black Hat Cajun
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I have not used them myself. I have heard nothing but good things about them. Have a buddy that used it in a 65 Impala he was restoring. Has held up several years so far. He swears by it now.
 
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hickslawns

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Thanks for all the input. Going to pick some up tomorrow (hopefully). Started the project. Hopefully as easy as it appears it will be. These super duty trucks are known for rust. Parts appear to be decent overall. Corners are superb. Rockers are so so. Here is what we are starting with.
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"J"

Git Off My Lawn
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ive used multiple 2 part epoxys on body work, they all work good and they wont come apart hell ive even used them on puting new bed sides on. make sure the area is cleaned up good and you get one that gives you enough time to work with before it sets up.
So basically gluing them in place of spot welding and brazing in place? Wow, that makes it easier than what I had too deal with back in the day 😂😂😂
 

hickslawns

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Ohio
Curious to hear what you did for prep on the rust. Cut it all out to the patch size or just cover? I'm not a welder so this has my interest.
I'll take more pics when we get to it. Going to need clean metal to weld. Taking out time on the disassembly. I don't want to take out too much, yet may have to dig deeper than I desire simply to find solid metal. I have a metal break. I have an aluminum break that should do light sheet metal if needed. I have metal working hand tools. I have redneck enginuity.

On the doors we sanded and painted with POR15. My foreman went ahead and covered the one side with some white spray paint in case we needed to use the truck. They will eventually be coated in Raptor Liner in white.
 
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Do you know anyone who works for Lord Corporation? They make Ford's body glue in a tube. I think they make it in Cambridge Springs Pa. or in Saegertown Pa. plant. Awesome stuff! I've used it on aluminum boats to seal rivets and holes in the transom. That is the stuff you want. Once it dries it ain't coming apart and it stays flexible!
 

hickslawns

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Ohio
Thanks Mickey. I actually bought Fusor made by Lord today. Two part stuff. Need a special caulking gun to apply it. It is weldable too. Different durations of set up time. The longer set up time you purchase, the longer you need to let it set up. Say 20min set up time you can work in 45 min. If you buy the 45min set up time you wait 1.5-2hrs to work it again. Very specific on the labels too. "Must be 68-100 degrees or the ingredients" don't work sort of thing.

So the outer rocker is gone. Inner rocker hanging on by one tiny bit of metal by the door jamb. The cab corners can go as high as the striker/latch for the door about where my finger is. Calling it a night. Debating on how much cab corner I am cutting out of the truck or how much of the replacement panel I am cutting off and pitching. Decisions to make and I'll make them after I sleep.
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Yes, if you can find that yellow 1 part Ford Fuser it is easier and has a wider range of working environments, for the future. The stuff is liquid gold! It holds and is near impossible to get off. Imagine using it like calking! You can even work it to seal seams and no mixing just like running silicone calk!
 
I rebuilt a 71 chevy p/u like that which included the floors. I worked in a sheet metal shop in college and we could pull the vehicles in after work! The whole thing I did in stainless and rivets, then soldiered the seams. When I parted the truck out years later the guys who bought the cab and doors (also done) were speechless!! Having access to shears, brakes and forming tools back then, plus silver soldier were priceless! Now I just drive Toyota's. Gas, oil and brakes occasionally is about it! My son has my 06 Camry with now 280,000 miles and is worried about a little surface rust... My 12 Avalon is like brand new, plus I New Hampshire undercoated it, which now has 150,000 miles on it. My 08 Lexus 470gx hunting rig is the same as my Avalon and it has 160,000 on it.
I sold a 92 Camry with 300,000 miles on it to a guy with a California Edition Boss Mustang, who wanted a winter car. He paid me and the last time I saw it he had 400,000 as he used it as his year round daily driver and parked the Mustang for sunny summer drives and car shows only! LOL
 
Being on lake Erie in Pa, actually on the ridge south of town we know snow and now liquid salt and rust here for sure! That calcium chloride spray migrates into seams better then Croil and Deep Creep for crying out loud!