Looking to learn more about todays campers

[hickslawns]

Dang Adam. That was some info. I'm going to add something critical. Many know this, but not everyone. Do NOT load all the gear to the rear of the trailer. You want it balanced. I have experienced an out of control trailer on the highway. Scariest pucker factor I have have experienced on the interstate. Keep the load in your trailer low and centered over the axles.

 

[5Cent]

Dang Adam. That was some info. I'm going to add something critical. Many know this, but not everyone. Do NOT load all the gear to the rear of the trailer. You want it balanced. I have experienced an out of control trailer on the highway. Scariest pucker factor I have have experienced on the interstate. Keep the load in your trailer low and centered over the axles.

While I agree with proper loading, the end goal should be for a trailer that has 10-15% tongue weight. As long as the trailer hitch setup is level or slightly nose down, you will not introduce sway due to weight allocation. Keep in mind that the newer, longer trailers are usually heavy on the front off the line. Look at the axle placement on the unit, the farther back, the more weight up front. Then look at tank(s) placement (keep in mind you may have times where you cannot dump legally, so think about the weight in the gray and blank tanks. Solids introduced will weigh more than the 8.3lbs/gal of H2O. You could be good when dry, but throw off the balance if your empty H2O tank is now replaced with two 45gal tanks behind or front of the trailer axle.

Don't let the numbers scare or confuse you. Simply keep all weights within spec of both the truck and camper (yes you can exceed the GVAWR of the trailer if loading everything in the rear or front due to storage bin size and placement), keep tongue weight between 10-15%, and keep the trailer level or slightly nose down.

Once you get all the numbers squared away, we can talk hitches, brake controllers, ST tires, safe speeds, and boondocking. The fun has jus begin fellas.

 

[DJK Frank 16]

Thanks Adam, I appreciate your feedback on this. There was a lot of different "opinions" on GVWR, GCWR, etc. Seemed like one thing I would read would contradict another. I ended up just running the VIN on my truck against Ford's database. I read for hours upon hours before we made the decision. Couple things, we will always be taking my wife's SUV with us when we go. Her and the boys, along with whatever cargo we can place in the back of her vehicle would go with them. Second, I will not be towing water with this truck. I will go down dry and fill up at campgrounds when we get there. Although, the fresh water tank is right above the axles of the trailer (another selling point for me).

Here is what I have in my mind:

GVWR of Truck: 6250
Curb Weight of Truck: 4400
Payload left: 1850
- Tongue weight of trailer: 725
- My fat ass: 245
- LP Tanks (I will figure all of the 110lbs as tongue weight just for the sake of figures) - 110
- Wood and Coolers: 400
- WDH: 150
- Truck Fuel: 120
- Camper Battery: 60

This leaves me at +40 lbs of payload if my math is right.

With an 8000 towing capacity, here is what I'm figuring on trailer:

Trailer Weight: 5750
Cargo weight of Supplies: 600lbs
LP Tanks: 110
Battery: 60
Total: 6520

This leaves me around a thousand pounds under towing capacity. This is how I want it though, I in now way want to push the limits and will definitely be taking my time when we head down. If I needed to haul some water it wouldn't be impossible, but would rather head down dry to save that (46gal x 8.3) 381lbs water would add.

Anything I'm missing in my figures? Sorry to derail the thread a bit, hopefully this will add some things to keep in mind when shopping for your camper.

 

[DJK Frank 16]

Adam, here is the hitch that I ended up w/ from the dealer:

12,000lb Equalizer

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/...kqmH4LAyDtqxv-GLhjADJpABs-P_iukHQ8aAr_y8P8HAQ

 

[5Cent]

Adam, here is the hitch that I ended up w/ from the dealer:

12,000lb Equalizer

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/...kqmH4LAyDtqxv-GLhjADJpABs-P_iukHQ8aAr_y8P8HAQ

Great choice, I have owned one of 8yrs

I would recommend taking it back and getting the 10K one. Any reason why he sold you the 12K version?

 

[5Cent]

Thanks Adam, I appreciate your feedback on this. There was a lot of different "opinions" on GVWR, GCWR, etc. Seemed like one thing I would read would contradict another. I ended up just running the VIN on my truck against Ford's database. I read for hours upon hours before we made the decision. Couple things, we will always be taking my wife's SUV with us when we go. Her and the boys, along with whatever cargo we can place in the back of her vehicle would go with them. Second, I will not be towing water with this truck. I will go down dry and fill up at campgrounds when we get there. Although, the fresh water tank is right above the axles of the trailer (another selling point for me).

Here is what I have in my mind:

GVWR of Truck: 6250
Curb Weight of Truck: 4400
Payload left: 1850
- Tongue weight of trailer: 725
- My fat ass: 245
- LP Tanks (I will figure all of the 110lbs as tongue weight just for the sake of figures) - 110
- Wood and Coolers: 400
- WDH: 150
- Truck Fuel: 120
- Camper Battery: 60

This leaves me at +40 lbs of payload if my math is right.

With an 8000 towing capacity, here is what I'm figuring on trailer:

Trailer Weight: 5750
Cargo weight of Supplies: 600lbs
LP Tanks: 110
Battery: 60
Total: 6520

This leaves me around a thousand pounds under towing capacity. This is how I want it though, I in now way want to push the limits and will definitely be taking my time when we head down. If I needed to haul some water it wouldn't be impossible, but would rather head down dry to save that (46gal x 8.3) 381lbs water would add.

Anything I'm missing in my figures? Sorry to derail the thread a bit, hopefully this will add some things to keep in mind when shopping for your camper.

Awesome to see you did due diligence up front before taking a salesman's word or winging this. Those numbers look OK, but I would still recommend filling the truck up with fuel, and you take it to the scales. I bet that 4400lb curb weight is understated and you will be very close to RGAWR on the truck with it loaded and the camper attached. Also, your cargo/payload is not an issue, but will defintely be if you load the family in as you have already recognized, well done.

Does this truck have a V6? Can you provide year and model?

 

[DJK Frank 16]

Great choice, I have owned one of 8yrs

I would recommend taking it back and getting the 10K one. Any reason why he sold you the 12K version?

No clue, originally had a Reese 1200 Pro in on the deal. I asked to have it switched for the Equalizer. That is what they gave me. At the time I didn't really know they made that many versions of the equalizer.

 

[DJK Frank 16]

Awesome to see you did due diligence up front before taking a salesman's word or winging this. Those numbers look OK, but I would still recommend filling the truck up with fuel, and you take it to the scales. I bet that 4400lb curb weight is understated and you will be very close to RGAWR on the truck with it loaded and the camper attached. Also, your cargo/payload is not an issue, but will defintely be if you load the family in as you have already recognized, well done.

Does this truck have a V6? Can you provide year and model?

V8, 01 F150 w/4.6L

Yep looks like the curb weight is closer to 4600.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/vindecoder.php?vin=2ftrx18w61ca01584

Look under the tech specs tab, all of the info should be in there. Let me know if you see something I'm missing. I appreciate it!!

 

[giles]

That's crazy! My truck is 8,450 with a full tank and my fat ass in it. That's without and fuel in the transfer tank either.

 

[5Cent]

Keep in mind any bed covers, step tubes, stuff inside cab, oversized rubber, etc needs to be calculated into truck weight which is why i recommend actually stepping on the scale. I would put $ on it you're almost 5k which is typical of a 1/2 ton.

The 10k Equalizer will provide a better ride since it has 1k bars which is the spring rate needed for the tongue weight range youll end up with. I am ALWAYS a fan of more than better is the best route, but not with springs. Something will always suffer.

 

[5Cent]

V8, 01 F150 w/4.6L

Yep looks like the curb weight is closer to 4600.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/vindecoder.php?vin=2ftrx18w61ca01584

Look under the tech specs tab, all of the info should be in there. Let me know if you see something I'm missing. I appreciate it!!

One heavy diesel motor and chassis. GVWR 10k?

 

[DJK Frank 16]

Keep in mind any bed covers, step tubes, stuff inside cab, oversized rubber, etc needs to be calculated into truck weight which is why i recommend actually stepping on the scale. I would put $ on it you're almost 5k which is typical of a 1/2 ton.

The 10k Equalizer will provide a better ride since it has 1k bars which is the spring rate needed for the tongue weight range youll end up with. I am ALWAYS a fan of more than better is the best route, but not with springs. Something will always suffer.

Yeah if that's the case I may be 3 or 400lbs over payload on the truck then. Thanks for the info Adam, I appreciate it!

 

[giles]

Hey Frank, you mentioned big brakes. I've had real good luck with my "Power Stop" drilled and slotted rotor with ceramic pads.

I'd also be sure your truck tires are rated for the load. I'm not sure what your running, but it's pretty important once you load them up.

 

[DJK Frank 16]

Hey Frank, you mentioned big brakes. I've had real good luck with my "Power Stop" drilled and slotted rotor with ceramic pads.

I'd also be sure your truck tires are rated for the load. I'm not sure what your running, but it's pretty important once you load them up.

I will look into those brakes, "bigger" may not have been the correct term to use, but I definitely would like something with high quality, along with an electronic trailer brake controller.

For tires, I haven't really started looking into this yet, but my truck calls for and has P265/75/R16. I did a quick search and the load rating is like 2,106lbs at 44psi. Does that include the truck and trailer weight? I didn't see a tire on the list that would handle the combined weight. May need some schooling in this department.

Good points giles!

 

[DJK Frank 16]

OK after a little google education, I see that my tires are rated for 2,601 per tire at Max PSI. Max carrying capacity is 10,404 lbs. Looks like I will be at least 1500 pounds over max capacity on the tire, if not a little more than that.

 

[5Cent]

Tires are fine. Multiply that x4 (unless ure only running 2 - which would require a picture of course lol!) and you have capacity over your GVWR. Your RGVAWR (rear axle) or wheels will have a lower rating than your tires.

Dont start sweating bullets. Get the truck on on a scale with you and a full tank and go from there. Quit looking at spec pages, they are approximates. At the end of the day, if you keep that camper and you get tired of driving two vehicles, paying extra for a 2nd cars fuel and parking at the CG, you will move into a 3/4 ton.

Remember, there are tons of ppl out there who go off the salesman advice or completely dont care and load things till springs are on bump stops. Watch a NASCAR race campground empty out, youll be like Adam is out of his mind, my truck's got this. But you have a responsibility with the family and others on the road to be as safe and legal as possible.

One other thing you will find is that 4.8L is going to work for it pulling 7k. Passing on highways will not happen without redlining and the tranny will be hunting gears all the time. As long as you keep it simple this summer and know that youre not going to win any races, youll be just fine.

 

[DJK Frank 16]

Tires are fine. Multiply that x4 (unless ure only running 2 - which would require a picture of course lol!) and you have capacity over your GVWR. Your RGVAWR (rear axle) or wheels will have a lower rating than your tires.

Dont start sweating bullets. Get the truck on on a scale with you and a full tank and go from there. Quit looking at spec pages, they are approximates. At the end of the day, if you keep that camper and you get tired of driving two vehicles, paying extra for a 2nd cars fuel and parking at the CG, you will move into a 3/4 ton.

Remember, there are tons of ppl out there who go off the salesman advice or completely dont care and load things till springs are on bump stops. Watch a NASCAR race campground empty out, youll be like Adam is out of his mind, my truck's got this. But you have a responsibility with the family and others on the road to be as safe and legal as possible.

One other thing you will find is that 4.8L is going to work for it pulling 7k. Passing on highways will not happen without redlining and the tranny will be hunting gears all the time. As long as you keep it simple this summer and know that youre not going to win any races, youll be just fine.

That's the biggest thing right there. I dumped about 3k into this truck last year, all new front end, coil packs, starter, alternator, wheel bearings, brakes, rotors, and tires. Would really like to drive it another year, or I would already be making plans to move into a 3/4 ton. But, if it isn't going to be safe or within spec, I wouldn't chance it.

 

[Beentown]

I pull 5K everyday, sometimes 7,800 a few times a week. Brakes and weight placement are key.



Slide out would be a nice "extra" but I dont see us being in the camper much. Or am I fooling myself and we will be in it more than i think?

 

[giles]

Your tires are fine. I know I see light duty trucks all the time with passenger tires on them, was just making sure you weren't one of those guys. The first time you pull it loaded, you'll know if the truck can handle it or not. Either you'll feel safe or you'll feel like you'll need surgery to have that drivers seat removed from your ass.

Do you have any prior experience pulling trailers?

 

[5Cent]

That's the biggest thing right there. I dumped about 3k into this truck last year, all new front end, coil packs, starter, alternator, wheel bearings, brakes, rotors, and tires. Would really like to drive it another year, or I would already be making plans to move into a 3/4 ton. But, if it isn't going to be safe or within spec, I wouldn't chance it.

Don't lose sleep over anything until you get real numbers. You maybe surprised one is lighter than your estimates, or your tongue weight will be in the lower range. A H2o tank directly over the axles actually helps stabilize, unless the tank is not full and its sloshing around (you will feel that in the truck).

The only number that is a legality issue that I believe you may get tight against is the rear axle rating. Everything after that is personal preference. Check out the link/site below, read till your head hurts.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28730107/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1

If you find that you don't like towing with the setup (WDH setup will make or break ya), you can always go seasonal for a year till you determine next steps.

We have a family friend that went from new ecoboost and 6500lb camper and a cheap chain WDH w/o sway control to a brand new ford 6.7l diesel 3/4 ton and a 10k equalizer hitch and he still wasn't comfortable. It will all come down to personal preference on feel once numbers are in.