Hi, I am looking to get my bow tuned. I recently bought a new bow and I am not satisfied with the tuning I received... I'm looking for someone who knows what they are doing and does paper and bare shaft tunings as well as checks for cam timing, lean, etc. I live near chillicothe but am willing to drive if I can get this done and done right the first time. I've not done a lot of tuning and want to have it done professionally at least the first time so I can get the idea of what I need to do lol. Thanks in advance!
Advice on shops for tuning?
- Thread starter FixItGuy
- Start date
Anyone bringing the stuff to do this this weekend? Doors open
Welcome! From a little west of you.
Welcome! From a little west of you.
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What bow and what seems to be the problem. I don't know of any shops in the area but if you're willing to learn and give it a shot there are plenty of guys here than can help walk you through the process and dial it in. Learning it yourself is the best way. Sometimes it takes some time to get it dialed in. Occasionally to do it right the hourly shop rate would exceed the cost of the bow, so they just get it to "good enough" and hand it back hoping you won't notice.
OO2
Well-Known Member
Sgt Fury
Sgt. Spellchecker
It’s always better to have someone who is experienced show you how to do something but this is something you could try to do yourself. This is basic arrow tuning but can get pretty involved the more you go down that rabbit hole. You may get to the point where you’re weighing your vanes, inserts, shafts and field points…separating them by grains, trying to get each arrow identical weight. Having to change cables and strings when they become worn, then making minor adjustments as they stretch. @brock ratcliff should be able to give some good advise. Many good people on here willing to help out. Welcome aboard!
I have an obssession Evolution 6 with spot hog fast eddy sight and the rest brand escapes me currently...its similar to qad. Well I had issues with the drop away rest making contact on the fall (felt was placed on contact point) so i was able to just trim the tip back, but i am also having some clearance issues with fletching and few other small aggravating things and just dont feel like i am able to be super consistent. So I'd like to get the bow set, then have them watch me shoot and see if they notice anything with my form that needs critiquing as well...maybe I'm torquing, inconsistent with process or whatever.
If you want to join this crew for our summer bow shoot this weekend, send a PM to @giles. I'm not super familiar with that bow, but can definitely help you troubleshoot, as can several of the guys coming this weekend. Bonus factor of meeting some guys, shooting bows, and drinking beers while talking deers. That's a win-win if I've ever seen one.
@Milo may chime in here, but I'd suggest checking your center shot measurement, which should be in your manual, or you can Google it. If you're not shooting a limb driven rest, but one that attaches to a buss cable, then I'd also confirm it's fully locking out at full draw. If you have fletching contact, but can't tell where, use some pool chalk on the outer edge of the fletching and that should be easy to see.
@Milo may chime in here, but I'd suggest checking your center shot measurement, which should be in your manual, or you can Google it. If you're not shooting a limb driven rest, but one that attaches to a buss cable, then I'd also confirm it's fully locking out at full draw. If you have fletching contact, but can't tell where, use some pool chalk on the outer edge of the fletching and that should be easy to see.
Milo
Tatonka guide.
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Looks like a floating yoke binary.. not many adjustments you can do on that. Probably the Indian more than the bow. Get the rest type to us. Felt never help contact in fact it probably makes it worse. While the tear charts posted above are a good starting point, you need to figure out if it’s an action or a reaction causing the tear. Arrow must be center of the rest hole on these bows. Most shops can barely even sell a bow let alone work on them. And I hate floating yokes
Milo
Tatonka guide.
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- 157
Inconsistency comes from two things…. Form or Fit. Have someone take a picture of you with your bow at full draw