Replacing a out building
- Thread starter CJD3
- Start date
It crushed the golf cart, damaged a 4 wheeler and the Scag took a direct hit .
clean up has been going on all week.
I need to replace the building and am trying to deside what way to go.
Wood frame or steel.
I see these web pages for steel buildings that size for almost half of a wood and they say it includes delivery and construction.
I’m looking for input. Is the steel pricing a racket and will end up being the same?
Steel adds for a bout 24x24 show $15-$25k
Wood is about twice that…
Ins says the old structure was $40k… (wood, tongue and groove construction shingle roof.)
They are giving $35,000. For replacement.
I may be able to get into the high $30k if I go wood sheeting and vinyl siding…
Any coments on the way to go would be appreciated . Im just getting started and will
Also check an Amish crew to build. I’m just suspicious of steel being so much cheaper on the websites.
Wood frame or steel.
I see these web pages for steel buildings that size for almost half of a wood and they say it includes delivery and construction.
I’m looking for input. Is the steel pricing a racket and will end up being the same?
Steel adds for a bout 24x24 show $15-$25k
Wood is about twice that…
Ins says the old structure was $40k… (wood, tongue and groove construction shingle roof.)
They are giving $35,000. For replacement.
I may be able to get into the high $30k if I go wood sheeting and vinyl siding…
Any coments on the way to go would be appreciated . Im just getting started and will
Also check an Amish crew to build. I’m just suspicious of steel being so much cheaper on the websites.
What i found in my area was that the stell building "bids" do not include site prep or concrete. That was a major cost difference. I also considered what my future plans were for my building. I always like to add and change my mind. So I can easily adapt the inside of my building because it is wood. I couldn't do that as easy with steel.
I have an existing cement floor. I am considering a “lean to” off one side for covered parking of a truck or tractor.
I liked your building Dave.
I liked your building Dave.
Down here steel seems to be the way most people go. A buddy had one put up and it’s served him well.
He had almost as much in site prep as the building itself. But the price of the building itself was all inclusive. Delivery and assembly with doors and windows.
He added gutters after the fact with a local company.
If you’re looking at just storage to keep out of the elements? Steel is the way to go. Especially if you’ve already got the cement floor in place. Use the added dollar savings for the lean too.
Plus add extra doors for the added convenience of getting to stuff. Especially overhead doors. Most of them are roll up style.
He had almost as much in site prep as the building itself. But the price of the building itself was all inclusive. Delivery and assembly with doors and windows.
He added gutters after the fact with a local company.
If you’re looking at just storage to keep out of the elements? Steel is the way to go. Especially if you’ve already got the cement floor in place. Use the added dollar savings for the lean too.
Plus add extra doors for the added convenience of getting to stuff. Especially overhead doors. Most of them are roll up style.
It would be for storage and a
Small work shop/ bench.
I’ve read some people have trouble hanging work lights though with steel. I don’t want any windows. Just a man door and 1-2 roll up garage doors. I would probably just dump
and pack stone for the lean-to.
It only gets “packed” for winter time.
Small work shop/ bench.
I’ve read some people have trouble hanging work lights though with steel. I don’t want any windows. Just a man door and 1-2 roll up garage doors. I would probably just dump
and pack stone for the lean-to.
It only gets “packed” for winter time.
@Buckmaster hey Ben you need to weigh in here and educate Jamesey on the features and benefits of steel....maybe show him some pictures of your barn...and you live up there not far from, so a Northern Ohio perspective...
@CJD3 you needz to talk to Ben
@CJD3 you needz to talk to Ben
My buddies garage is a lot like Ben’s…. Has the beams for the main structure.
Sgt Fury
Sgt. Spellchecker
Definitely insulate it if you go steel or the metal will sweat inside when there’s a big temperature difference between inside and outside. You can save a lot of money if you do the insulation yourself, then put up plywood/OSB walls. Electric would be nice and you could consider gas or propane wall units for heat. If you’re putting a workbench in there, heat and electric would be great to have when you’re doing projects in the winter. You’ll save a lot with site prep because you already have the concrete in place. Also, LED lights are way brighter than fluorescent lights and are inexpensive.
First of if you have a RCV(replacement cost value ) insurance policy , you should be getting 40 g not 35.
They will use Xactimate to figure out cost be sure it’s done in the newest quarter.
Have the insurance company send you a scope of work before anything. Don’t fall for the get 3bids and get back to us.
You should also be being paid for clean up. Not sure if what you had inside was “insured” or not. Tarping things you should be paid for etc etc. Depending.
Insurance companies will F..u faster than a Vegas hooker know your policy.
Amish are not always better they have a different way of doing things. Not saying they are all bad by any means but they are not as conventional as others.
As far as metal or wood that’s a preference you should choose . For that size building I would go 16 on center conventional ply wood it etc put metal on outside siding and roof or Metal roof with regular siding.
Also don’t let anyone bullshit you on shingles being way cheaper that’s just not true unless your roof is all cut up but metal is the way to go for roof IMHO .
35 k you should have a nice
If you have the know how I would be more than happy to let you use my company name to order materials to save you money.
Sorry for your loss.
Just know you should have plenty of money to have what you had but brand new Built.
They will use Xactimate to figure out cost be sure it’s done in the newest quarter.
Have the insurance company send you a scope of work before anything. Don’t fall for the get 3bids and get back to us.
You should also be being paid for clean up. Not sure if what you had inside was “insured” or not. Tarping things you should be paid for etc etc. Depending.
Insurance companies will F..u faster than a Vegas hooker know your policy.
Amish are not always better they have a different way of doing things. Not saying they are all bad by any means but they are not as conventional as others.
As far as metal or wood that’s a preference you should choose . For that size building I would go 16 on center conventional ply wood it etc put metal on outside siding and roof or Metal roof with regular siding.
Also don’t let anyone bullshit you on shingles being way cheaper that’s just not true unless your roof is all cut up but metal is the way to go for roof IMHO .
35 k you should have a nice
If you have the know how I would be more than happy to let you use my company name to order materials to save you money.
Sorry for your loss.
Just know you should have plenty of money to have what you had but brand new Built.
I'm looking at changing out my barn to something more usable. I looked into the metal buildings. They start out as carports and then you add sides/leanto's/sides, walls etc.
Major takeaways from them - No site work or site prep is included in the prices I got quoted. You have an existing slab so that really helps. The buildings are ONLY designed to be self supporting so any additional walls, etc need to be framed on their own, aka you can't just screw into them and build walls. Insulation is extra from the base prices. The prices include no wiring or electrical beyond the garage doors (if electric). I'm still in the gather information stage and am also trying to figure out exactly what size I want/need.
Major takeaways from them - No site work or site prep is included in the prices I got quoted. You have an existing slab so that really helps. The buildings are ONLY designed to be self supporting so any additional walls, etc need to be framed on their own, aka you can't just screw into them and build walls. Insulation is extra from the base prices. The prices include no wiring or electrical beyond the garage doors (if electric). I'm still in the gather information stage and am also trying to figure out exactly what size I want/need.
I think i miss understood your original question. My building is a pole barn. I consider it wood framed. I think you were talking about 2x4 like your existing building. The more I think about this the more I like replacing it the same. Sure you have to paint it but it matches the house. Unless you are trying to get away from the maintenance?
He can replace it anyway he wants it. Can add money to it can cut costs and still get the 35-40k he is receiving.
Basically he will be paid so much it’s his choice to make it any color,style. He could go with a Mansard style building A lean to type building a pole barn or a conventional 16on center garage sided with metal wood or vinyl siding.
He could also put it anywhere he wants on property etc etc .
Also matters if contents inside garage were covered . Anything scratched dented etc ruined he would be paid for as well. That’s where putting tarps over things gets you paid .
Clean up dumpster all should be paid for . Scope of work should also have overhead in it for contractors.
Whom ever builds it need to see scope of work what they are paying and go over it well I’m sure they are cutting costs somewhere. A good contractor would be able to point out hey your not paying going price for this material or install etc etc.
Maybe th concrete cracked some where on floor etc etc does it need to come out . Etc etc
Scope of work is where a fella gets started .
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Buckmaster
Senior Member
Buckmaster
Senior Member
The engineer I work for does lots of steel building plans and they are ok. There is nothing wrong with them, if and this is the biggie, they are designed and built correctly. I would make sure they are sealed by a structural engineer, maybe even call a local structural engineer and see who they do work for.
if you have the concrete pad that they use and bolt the new building down to then this is definitely the cheaper way to go.
Need to find out what gauge steel they use.
if you have the concrete pad that they use and bolt the new building down to then this is definitely the cheaper way to go.
Need to find out what gauge steel they use.
Buckmaster
Senior Member
Most popular and economical is 29 gauge. If you want heavier than go with 26 gauge.
Depends if you want it insulated outlets every 6 feet etc etc . If you need a structural engineer involved in that small of a building …
I can see what your your saying but the whole thing is simple.Conventional is the way to go . If you have cash to sink in it go bigger .
You want convenience and things done 16on center 2 foot truss etc etc outlets insulated done . You need an engineer Meh. .
I guess if you haven’t ever built anything that would be a safe spot but it’s a garage.
Simple easy peasy .
Engineers Can be the worst at times never swung a hammer etc etc . Read books but never done much else.
I’ve been involved in projects that the engineers had no clue .