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DIY Lighted Nocks
- Thread starter jagermeister
- Start date
I don't know what they weight, as I don't have a scale, but I don't think they weigh much more than any other lighted nocks. Oh, and Busch Heavy or Yuengling.
Like Greg said, a lot of the commercial lighted nocks have holes in the back. However that hole really isn't necessary if you're using clear or translucent nocks. I used the clear nocks with no hole in the back, and they are actually brighter than my brother's Lumenoks.
Take some sand paper and sand down the inside of the nock groove a bit. You want them just tight enough to hold the arrow on your string, but not so tight that they "snap" on to the string.
Shot them before I left Friday and they flew just fine. I was only able to shoot at 20 yds, though, so I don't know for sure what (if any) flight changes I'd see at 30 or 40 yds. They work great, though! Come on ever time!
saddlepants
Member
saddlepants
Member
Got all my stuff to make these nocs today and the guy at the hunting store selling me the clear nocs wanted to know how so he could stop spending the bucks on them, LOL!!!
saddlepants
Member
were you stalking me? lol whered you go?? I got the lights at wally world and the nocs at Ricks in Mt Vernon, I discovered that Carbon express arrows require "special" size nocs. figures, what I dont understand is the need to attach a "stop" to the bottom of the battery from the old noc...Nocturnals dont have one, nor do some of the others..Im guessin its to hold the battery whilst you pull up on the noc? and the nocturnals dont have it because you flip them up from a hole in the side?
That's precisely why, SP.
A couple tips for you all that may or may not be mentioned in the video (my memory is terrible).... I've since made 3 more of these nocks and there's a few "tips" that stick out in my mind.
1) It's easier to trim or sand the red plastic around the LED than to drill out the inside of the nock, for test-fitting the light inside it.
2) Try to get the stopper piece and the actual nock lined up and as square as possible... It'll be more difficult to slide into the shaft if it's crooked.
3) Make sure the actual nock is sanded down and fits pretty loose... If it's not, it'll be harder to activate and de-activate the switch, especially if alignment is slightly off.
4) Instead of rolling the LED end into the glue like he shows in the video, I've found that it works better if I dab the glue inside the nock with a toothpick, then slide the light in. If you test fit it first, you can see just how far in to place the glue so that you only glue the LED switch itself.
5) A red-hot finishing nail makes poking a hole through the back of the nock pretty easy, if you don't have a small drill bit. This last set I made were with the stock red microlite nocks, and making a hole in the back really brightens them up from behind.
That's all I can remember for now... If I think of something else I'll let you know. The good thing is, as cheap as these things are, you can afford to learn by mistake... But preventing as much of that as possible is cool TOO. :smiley_bril:
saddlepants
Member
1) It's easier to trim or sand the red plastic around the LED than to drill out the inside of the nock, for test-fitting the light inside it.
?? so your drilling or not drilling, im confused
?? so your drilling or not drilling, im confused
Not drilling anything. The LED end of the bobber light has a red plastic ring around the base of it, which basically gives a fisherman something to grip when turning the light off and on. For my nocks, the light doesn't fit up inside there because of that plastic "lip." So instead of boring out the inside of the nock, I just take a sharp knife and carefully shave that plastic lip off. Once that's done, the light fits up in the nock about 3/4 of the way. I then use a toothpick to place a small amount of super glue inside the nock, at the spot where the light "dead-ends." This ensure that I only glue the red switch to the nock, and not also the battery portion of the light. If you use too much glue and glue the battery to the nock, the switch won't be able to activate.
Drilling a hole in the back of the nock, like a "window" to the LED, is not necessary... However, it definitely makes the nock brighter since you're looking directly at the LED then from behind. I didn't do this with the clear CX nocks and they turned out fine. My easton microlite nocks, on the other hand, are a translucent red color... they were okay without a hole in the back, but the hole in the back makes them REALLY bright. Instead of drilling, I just heated a finishing nail with a torch and carefully stuck it through from the back.
Hopefully this helps.
Milo
Tatonka guide.
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http://eunicell.en.alibaba.com/prod...attery_LED_lights_pin_type_battery_CR425.html
do these look familiar?
do these look familiar?
Milo
Tatonka guide.
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Milo
Tatonka guide.
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Milo... I still have contacts in South Korea... Let me know a bulk quantity and I'm sure i can get you a mix of colors, shipped tyd, no hassles. And probably at a better price each than you can find online.
Milo
Tatonka guide.
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NICE !! thats the best place i have found... ask about 100 green or red..cool deal...if they can get teh JR type it look like you can replace the battery ...so you have a lumenock that will last as long as you want!! also need the LED to be 3mm in size BTW
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What price range. Everything in Korea is seriously negotiable. I presume you want the R327
You're not going to believe this... But that company is in the very city where my wife was born and her family still lives. This just keeps getting easier.
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