- 38,870
- 260
DIY Lighted Nocks
- Thread starter jagermeister
- Start date
Milo
Tatonka guide.
- 8,184
- 157
Milo
Tatonka guide.
- 8,184
- 157
if your gonna do something, best to get your head out yur butt and start doin it right...bet we can build these suckers CHEEP
saddlepants
Member
I am looking for something CHEAP to use in the shaft instead of a cut nock. Something of similar/differing diameters so that there would be less trimming.
I am making mine tonight.
One of the Thills I bought from Wally World doesn't work.
saddlepants
Member
Ok so I'm having a little trouble with mine. First off the nocs he sold me at Ricks are Bohning signatures and they are a little tight in my Carbon Express Mutiny250 arrows...no big deal i took my dremel sanding barrel lightly around the base a few times till I was comfortable with the fit that it was snug enough but yet I would still be able to pull on the noc to turn it off. The real problem is in the bas of the old noc...it fits the battery too loose and Im trying to glue it on with the super glue but it keeps pushing loose when I try to insert it into the arrow shaft. Im gonna leave it set overnight but I fear I will have to rough up the batteries to make this work...any ideas?? The Bohning nocs are supposed to fit the carbon express arrows but they are really to tight for this application IMO
Try wrapping some electrical tape around the battery first... It won't take much. Then once you get it to fit a little snug, glue it in place.
Make sure the rear piece (the complete nock) fits pretty loose in the back of the arrow. Loose enough so that it slides in and out very easy, but not so much that it gets sloppy. (wow, that sounded wrong lmao) If it's snug at all, it will bind up and make it hard to turn the light on and off. You want to be able to activate the switch with as little pressure as possible, yet still maintain the integrity of the nock.
If it helps to sweeten the deal, let me throw this one out there. I will throw in $25. Ship them to Milo. Let him have whatever is left over. I don't have the time to dink around with it right now. One of these days I will meet up with Milo and maybe he will toss me half a dozen or a dozen already done and I cover half his initial costs. I don't even care when they get done. Sometime before next hunting season sound reasonable? Let's face it, I was going to drop $25 to have 3 shipped to me anyhow. Deal Milo?
saddlepants
Member
Oh I fuggered them all up anyhow. Two of them were working fine and then after they sat for about an hour I went back and they wouldnt turn on and off so I quit. The one I tried to finish with the base is all screwed up. My dremel is a small delicate thing used for light stuff and it worked great on the noc...its the glue Im having issues with really but now they are shot and I have to start over
Works for me! Shoot me a PM with your paypal address and I will shoot you some money.
Milo I was thinking about using a drill press with a chuck to hold the nocks. Be an easy thing to make.
Too much glue will get you into trouble with these. If it looks like there's not enough, there probably is. Don't give up yet, SP... these bobber lights are cheap! Get the hang of it and you'll be set with as many lighted nocks as you want!
Who wants to sell me 3 of them lmao.
I am up in Macedonia Monday - Friday this upcoming week and then home a week before I make my next 3 week stay up there so let me know and I will work out a drop and payment arrangment.
I am up in Macedonia Monday - Friday this upcoming week and then home a week before I make my next 3 week stay up there so let me know and I will work out a drop and payment arrangment.
Huckleberry Finn
Senior Member
- 15,973
- 135
camofry
*Supporting Member*
We have tried these a few times and never had no luck. We have had nocks split, Batteries pull apart, but the biggest problem was the force of the string jamming the light on and you cant turn them off. If you find a way to make them that work, please pass it on.
Granted, I'm new at building these nocks, but I've shot them a fair number of times with good results thus far. I haven't had the string jam the light stuck in the ON position yet. Here's what I do... Before inserting the nock into the arrow shaft, turn the light on... Then push it into the arrow and bottom the nock out against the back of the arrow. By doing this, there's no way for the nock to be pressed in any farther than what's necessary to activate the light... therefore preventing the force of the string from making it get stuck. The back of the arrow shaft basically acts as a stopper.
Other than that, I think it's just a matter of being consistent with your glue applications and making sure of good fits. Make sure the back nock fits nice and loose in the arrow shaft, and make sure the nock isn't too tight on the string. Easy movement of that nock, both in the arrow shaft and off the string, equates to easier activation of the switch.
