ATV Trailer, adding a wood floor

[Dustinb80]

I bought a new trailer for the ATV. I figure it will be cheaper than back windows on trucks in the long run. Im going to be putting a wood floor on it this weekend. The Pro Services guy at Lowes suggested 1X6X8 Premium Deck floor which he said is pine and very sturdy. The premium, according to him, holds a true 1" thickness. He is also suggesting #10 Self Tapping screws. Ill attach the links below. I need your guys thoughts. Haven't decided if I'm flipping the axles or if I'm buying a larger drop tongue yet. Not entirely sold on the idea of self tappers, with no washers or nuts, etc.


http://www.lowes.com/pd_489023-6466...023&UserSearch=489023&productId=999922022#img

http://www.lowes.com/pd_580245-2191-100137.0___?productId=50303223&pl=1&Ntt=#10+self+tapping+screws

http://www.lowes.com/pd_100369-15476-5X8G_1z0x2ms__?productId=3005264&pl=1

 

["J"]

First off, if you can find a sawmill go price the wood in rough cut.... You might be surprised in the price difference....

I'm a fan of, bolts, washers and locknuts....

 

[Gern186]

What J said.

 

["J"]

You're hauling a sizable investment.... I wouldn't trust it too self tapping screws/bolts....

 

[Dustinb80]

Those are the thoughts Im having. How about the lumber, good with his suggestion?

 

[Buckmaster]

I'd roll POR15 on the grid work prior to covering with wood. Will prevent future rust as the wood will hold some moisture in between grid-deck.
I'd use some kind of treated wood, 1x6, 1x8, etc.
For fasteners I'd probably use stainless carriage bolts, fender washer, and nylon insert locknut (keep in mind I'm a fastener guy).
Final treatment would be 2 coats of Flood CWF (Clear Wood Finish).

While you're at it....make up some removable side skirts so you can haul mulch, etc.

 

[Dustinb80]

I'd roll POR15 on the grid work prior to covering with wood. Will prevent future rust as the wood will hold some moisture in between grid-deck.
I'd use some kind of treated wood, 1x6, 1x8, etc.
For fasteners I'd probably use stainless carriage bolts, fender washer, and nylon insert locknut (keep in mind I'm a fastener guy).
Final treatment would be 2 coats of Flood CWF (Clear Wood Finish).

While you're at it....make up some removable side skirts so you can haul mulch, etc.

I like the way you think. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

 

[giles]

I'd roll POR15 on the grid work prior to covering with wood. Will prevent future rust as the wood will hold some moisture in between grid-deck.
I'd use some kind of treated wood, 1x6, 1x8, etc.
For fasteners I'd probably use stainless carriage bolts, fender washer, and nylon insert locknut (keep in mind I'm a fastener guy).
Final treatment would be 2 coats of Flood CWF (Clear Wood Finish).

While you're at it....make up some removable side skirts so you can haul mulch, etc.

My hero, you saved me from typing all that from my phone!

 

[Bigslam51]

I put that stuff on my old 5×8 trailer, never got any rust on it. I need to coat my new one

 

[Blan37]

I just bought a similar trailer on sale at Rural King.

For mine I bought two sheets of plywood and had them cut to 2.5' sections and just laid them down, then on the perimeter I put some pine boards so I can haul dirt or mulch. I didn't want anything too heavy (I'm pulling this with a car).

To attach the boards to the side I just made some brackets out of some metal strap. I paid $50 for the plywood and I have some left over that I'm going to use for shelves.

I bought a gallon of deck stain that they had from a customer return for $9 and painted all the boards with that.

The thing that kinda sucks about my setup is that for some reason they ran the wiring tube on the inside of the trailer. I had to cut a notch out of my side boards so they fit flush with the decking.

 

[Joel]

I had metal mesh and covered it with wood. I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood, carriage bolts, nuts and lock washers. It's been on the trailer and always stored outside for two years and still holding up fine. I did not treat the wood.

IMO 1" thick boards are a bad idea. I'd do 5/4 deck boards minimum and 2x8's would be even better. Would have been too thick for me.

 

[hickslawns]

If you can fit rough cut oak from a sawmill on the floor it will last longer than anything. They are very heavy though. You will be losing some of the carrying capacity of the trailer just with the weight of the lumber. Treated deck boards, stainless bolts, washers top and bottom side, and stainless nylock nuts is what I would do on a small trailer.

 

[hickslawns]

I just bought a similar trailer on sale at Rural King.

For mine I bought two sheets of plywood and had them cut to 2.5' sections and just laid them down, then on the perimeter I put some pine boards so I can haul dirt or mulch. I didn't want anything too heavy (I'm pulling this with a car).

To attach the boards to the side I just made some brackets out of some metal strap. I paid $50 for the plywood and I have some left over that I'm going to use for shelves.

I bought a gallon of deck stain that they had from a customer return for $9 and painted all the boards with that.

The thing that kinda sucks about my setup is that for some reason they ran the wiring tube on the inside of the trailer. I had to cut a notch out of my side boards so they fit flush with the decking.

View attachment 43561

View attachment 43562

Watch closely as you load it Blan. In our retail location I have had people tell me "Keep loading. I can fit another yard of mulch." Then we have to unload because they realized their fenders were sitting on the tires. The axle ratings aren't real heavy on many of the smaller trailers.

 

[Blan37]

Watch closely as you load it Blan. In our retail location I have had people tell me "Keep loading. I can fit another yard of mulch." Then we have to unload because they realized their fenders were sitting on the tires. The axle ratings aren't real heavy on many of the smaller trailers.

Thanks. It's a 2000# axle but my car can only tow 1000. I'm pretty much screwed long before I ever max out the trailer lol

 

[Dustinb80]

I had metal mesh and covered it with wood. I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood, carriage bolts, nuts and lock washers. It's been on the trailer and always stored outside for two years and still holding up fine. I did not treat the wood.

IMO 1" thick boards are a bad idea. I'd do 5/4 deck boards minimum and 2x8's would be even better. Would have been too thick for me.

5/4 deck boards are 1 1/8". This is what was suggested. Helps cut down in the weight.

 

[Big_Holla]

Joel mentioned the treated plywood, that's the route I'd go. Then seal it with what others mentioned above.

 

[Dustinb80]

The deck boards will be premium treated boards. This will be garage kept when not in use, not sure how much the sealer is needed. Thoughts?

 

["J"]

Do it once and it should last for a very long time...

 

[Dustinb80]

Do it once and it should last for a very long time...

Makes sense.

 

[5Cent]

Thanks. It's a 2000# axle but my car can only tow 1000. I'm pretty much screwed long before I ever max out the trailer lol

Maybe a 2K axle, but what is the GVWR? Take GVWR-actual trailer weight = cargo capacity left.

Are you saying your car only has a 1K tow limit? If so, I would look at the hitch and make sure you're not pushing tongue weight. Typical tongue weight is 10-15%, or in your case 100lbs - 150lbs. Not sure what type/how your hitch is installed but it might be worth a look.