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Block style targets (must be broadhead capable)

Creamer

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Opinion/suggestion time. I'm going to need a new broadhead target soon. Currently, my target situation is a Morrell Range Bag (field point only) I have hung on a 4x4 post frame. I also have a Rinehart 18-in-1 that I use for both field points and broadheads. The Rinehart I inherited from my father-in-law, not sure how long he had it but it had some use. I've got several sides shot out of it now. It might not look awful but the middle (guts) of the target is basically gone. About the last side(s) I can shoot and expect a good shot to be safely stopped is the top and bottom of the target. I was in a hurry last night, shooting some drills from 15ish yards with my longbow, and just sat the Rinehart out to shoot. First arrow:



Blasted through almost clean, had to be found in the grass below the target. Second arrow:



Damn near blasted through. I learned my lesson after those two and rolled the target up to shoot the top and bottom. When I start shooting more broadheads this summer it's not gonna survive. What are you guys using? A buddy told me he has a Morrell High Roller but it didn't last well at all. Block brand target? Rinehart Woodland Hunter block? Another 18-in-1? I'd like to stick with a block style target for broadheads instead of dumping more money on a 3D that won't last. I'd also like to stay under $150, so the Matrix style targets that are $300+ are a no-go for me.

What are your thoughts?
 
Foam in a can, but if you have somebody that has a blow foam insulation machine at work they have to do weighted test shots, usually into garbage bags and that is what i always shot into. tell them as dense as possible. We always restored ours with the denser expanding Great Stuff insulation in a can.
 
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Them broad heads really carve up a target! It may be pseudo science but I would shoot the field tips till right before season, then switch to blades. I had every arrow numbered on the vane. I kept track of my 3 best numbers as to accuracy. I shot them random, paying no attention to the numbers till i pulled them from the target. Also I never shot 2 arrows at the same spot. This saves on damage, especially on vanes. When I finally put the broad heads on the arrow, I made sure the 3 blades matched the lines of the vanes, then I would spin the arrow on the point to make sure there was zero wobble. Doing these things both increased my accuracy and confidence when shooting. My last week and all practice within the season was 1 shot/first shot rounds, using the 3rd best arrow, leaving me with my 2 most accurate arrows for hunting. The numbers on the 3 could be any 3 of the 6 I started with but you bet your booty I knew which was my kill arrow!

During the pre season practice me and a couple buddys would have a shoot George shoot! At 30 yards we each placed a dollar bill on the target and shot for the George on the center front. Whoever hit him best got the 3 bucks. Field tips only. You get better quick when you get down about a Lincoln! You also learn to see your arrow right to your target!
 
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Creamer

Active Member
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I don't shoot broadheads all the time, but working with a new bow/arrow setup I don't want to wait too long to start tinkering with the sharpy sharps. Whenever I do shoot blades, I usually shoot like 1 broadhead and 2 field tips in a group of 3. And the pro tip is always shoot the broadhead arrow first. Same reason, could potentially save on vanes/feathers (if I do my job and shoot a tight group).
 

Creamer

Active Member
1,589
81
Athens
I snapped a couple of pics of the 18-in-1 last night. The center of the target is pulverized. Chunks of it are all over the yard.



The top of the target is the side I shot at last night. For now, it's still stopping fine.



The main reason I want a block style target is that this is the target I move around a lot. I have a couple of trees I practice from the saddle from, and moving a 3D target was always a PITA. With the range bag stationary, I need a target that can be mobile.
 
I snapped a couple of pics of the 18-in-1 last night. The center of the target is pulverized. Chunks of it are all over the yard.



The top of the target is the side I shot at last night. For now, it's still stopping fine.



The main reason I want a block style target is that this is the target I move around a lot. I have a couple of trees I practice from the saddle from, and moving a 3D target was always a PITA. With the range bag stationary, I need a target that can be mobile.
Fill the void with Great Stuff Foam and it will last a while longer for you!
 

Creamer

Active Member
1,589
81
Athens
Since I'm not good at pulling the trigger on purchases, I've given myself a stay of execution on the Rinehart.







A guy had sent me some sample foam target pieces he paints, and I slapped one of them on the side with the largest refilled void.