DIablo,
You cant shoot 200 grain heads out of a compound. They dont make shafts with a stiff enough spine to take the beating. The new bows have so much momentum comnig from the cams a regular 300 spine shaft would snap in half wit ha 200 grain head on the end of it out of a 70lb bow.
Everyone has their taste in food, same goes with broadheads. To say that you are opening yourself up for failure by shooting a rage, thats just stupid. Ive shot Rages for over 3 years now without one mechanical failure. A lot of my buddies shoot them, never have they had a failure. Often times failures are due to human error. Human error often comes in the form of negligence(sp). Could I shoot a fixed blade from my bow? You bet. I tune my bows with fixed blades. I group tune every bow I own with fixed blades, as paper tuning in not 100% effective.
I have shot deer with muzzys, montecs, wasp fixed blades, thunderheads. From my experience, they all kill deer. I have had better luck with rages. Im sorry but a 2+ inch hole aint closing up boys. No way, no how. I shoot my Hoyt maxxis at 72lb with a 382 grain arrow at approximately 298 fps. with a 29 inch draw, dont know what KE is I forget, probably around the 70-75 mark. Very rarely do I not get a pass through. Most times the arrow is stuck in the ground about 6 inches on the other side of the deer. Although, to me a pass through is irrelevant. I tend to get more blood through a non pass through. BEsides, 90% of the deer I have shot with rages, I have seen fall.
Everyone talks about shoulder blades. A shoulder blade is not the issue in a deers shoulder. It is the knuckle where the epificy of the bones meets the ball/socket. THats what stops arrows, not scapulas. Scapulas at 60% cartilage and otherwise super thin bone.
Of my deer kills with rages, id say 70% of my heads are reusable as is after the shot, just need a new oring. Im not concerned with re-using broadheads. if it breaks, ill go buy more. who cares.
People use what they feel comfortable in. Although, all to often people depend on a tip to do their work. WHen the confidence should start in the mind of the shooter in his ability to place an arrow exactly where he wants it. When I draw back on a deer, I can be certain that my arrow is going to hit within an inch of where I am aimed. When I draw my bow back, there are no doubts in my mind about my setup. I am that confident in what I shoot and what I use.
Shoot what you want. BEtter yet, test and tune and shoot what proves itself worthy for you. Not because someone told you how good something was or because you heard a good or bad story about it.
DIablo,
You cant shoot 200 grain heads out of a compound. They dont make shafts with a stiff enough spine to take the beating. The new bows have so much momentum comnig from the cams a regular 300 spine shaft would snap in half wit ha 200 grain head on the end of it out of a 70lb bow.
Everyone has their taste in food, same goes with broadheads. To say that you are opening yourself up for failure by shooting a rage, thats just stupid. Ive shot Rages for over 3 years now without one mechanical failure. A lot of my buddies shoot them, never have they had a failure. Often times failures are due to human error. Human error often comes in the form of negligence(sp). Could I shoot a fixed blade from my bow? You bet. I tune my bows with fixed blades. I group tune every bow I own with fixed blades, as paper tuning in not 100% effective.
I have shot deer with muzzys, montecs, wasp fixed blades, thunderheads. From my experience, they all kill deer. I have had better luck with rages. Im sorry but a 2+ inch hole aint closing up boys. No way, no how. I shoot my Hoyt maxxis at 72lb with a 382 grain arrow at approximately 298 fps. with a 29 inch draw, don't know what KE is I forget, probably around the 70-75 mark. Very rarely do I not get a pass through. Most times the arrow is stuck in the ground about 6 inches on the other side of the deer. Although, to me a pass through is irrelevant. I tend to get more blood through a non pass through. Besides, 90% of the deer I have shot with rages, I have seen fall.
Everyone talks about shoulder blades. A shoulder blade is not the issue in a deers shoulder. It is the knuckle where the epificy of the bones meets the ball/socket. THats what stops arrows, not scapulas. Scapulas at 60% cartilage and otherwise super thin bone.
Of my deer kills with rages, id say 70% of my heads are reusable as is after the shot, just need a new oring. Im not concerned with re-using broadheads. if it breaks, ill go buy more. who cares.
People use what they feel comfortable in. Although, all to often people depend on a tip to do their work. WHen the confidence should start in the mind of the shooter in his ability to place an arrow exactly where he wants it. When I draw back on a deer, I can be certain that my arrow is going to hit within an inch of where I am aimed. When I draw my bow back, there are no doubts in my mind about my setup. I am that confident in what I shoot and what I use.
Shoot what you want. BEtter yet, test and tune and shoot what proves itself worthy for you. Not because someone told you how good something was or because you heard a good or bad story about it.
How much cutting surface does the 2 blade rage have??I mean 1 goal(not the only) is to cut tissue an vessels right?
An joe i hope you literary dont mean tap the release??Not the best habit to get into..An a hard one to break(trust me been there/am there)
How much cutting surface does the 2 blade rage have??I mean 1 goal(not the only) is to cut tissue an vessels right?
An joe i hope you literary dont mean tap the release??Not the best habit to get into..An a hard one to break(trust me been there/am there)
2 2/8(1/4)!! Nice fraction.Yeah on the mags..THe std are 2in even i think.Thats actually the point i wanted to prove...But yet the rage in theory would need more KE to be effective in comparison right?.I mean I had a pack of rage an felt my setup was LIGHT ke wise for them.So i traded 1 pack rage for 3 pack St mags(ya cant beat that)...I guess what im asking is you dont need the same KE to be effective pass through wise with both heads right?2 inches on a rage..
2 2/8ths total on a 4 blade ST...
Ones a 2 inch line, the others a hole that's somehow magically bigger than the 1 1/8 inch blade diameter lol..
I agree with joe and milo completely. Rages are not meant to go throguh bone. I would agree 100%. THere is no doubts that slick tricks are tough heads. If I were gogni to shoot a fixed blade I would probaly shoot montecs. I like them a lot and I liked their durability and design.
I just like my rages.
Although, I am gonig retro this year. My first deer with die to this. Milo, I know you have seen these!!!
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I agree with joe and milo completely. Rages are not meant to go throguh bone. I would agree 100%. THere is no doubts that slick tricks are tough heads. If I were gogni to shoot a fixed blade I would probaly shoot montecs. I like them a lot and I liked their durability and design.
I just like my rages.
Although, I am gonig retro this year. My first deer with die to this. Milo, I know you have seen these!!!
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Not really a puncher then you just want to command the shot..Which alot of times I would think is best when hunting IMO..I had to start using my back muscles(back tension).In order to overcome punching mine wasnt controlled like yours..Its going pretty well!But it does linger in my head that fact that i cant make spilt second shots yet with this method..If i dont trick my mind into a bit of a surprise my accuracy with a bow or rifle is horrible..I am just one of them ppl that has to work hard to even achieve mediocrity LMAOI'm a puncher... But a modified one. lol.. I squeeze up the tension then right before the breaking point i apply that last little tiny bit of pressure in an instant. I don't like surprises.. I shoot the same with a rifle..
Not really a puncher then you just want to command the shot..Which alot of times I would think is best when hunting IMO..I had to start using my back muscles(back tension).In order to overcome punching mine wasnt controlled like yours..Its going pretty well!But it does linger in my head that fact that i cant make spilt second shots yet with this method..If i dont trick my mind into a bit of a surprise my accuracy with a bow or rifle is horrible..I am just one of them ppl that has to work hard to even achieve mediocrity LMAO
Do the slick tricks really fly like field points. I shot a doe sat it was a hard quartering away shot and only two blades opened. So word of the wise don't us g5 t3s. I don't want to change my set up. What's the best modal to get. I do alot of 3d shooting and I just want a broadheads I can put on and go hunting. What's your guys thoughts?
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When Slick Trick says they fly like a field tip.... They mean it....
First ST shot since i got my bow tuned at Milos Archery shop... 30 yards at a cotton ball.. Bottom one is a field tip. Top one is a new slick trick.
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Yes most model of Slick tricks will or can fly like field tips..But its always best to start with a well tuned bow with a properly spined arrow.To achieve the best an easiest results..If you do this an broadhead tune your Broadheads will fly with your feild tips..An you will be able to shoot 3D or hunt like you stated above ..If you want ease of tuning from a slick trick.I would get Standards or Magnums..All the other models can be broad head tuned..But they might take a bit more effort..IMO..Do the slick tricks really fly like field points. I shot a doe sat it was a hard quartering away shot and only two blades opened. So word of the wise don't us g5 t3s. I don't want to change my set up. What's the best modal to get. I do alot of 3d shooting and I just want a broadheads I can put on and go hunting. What's your guys thoughts?