bunch of azz holes
- Thread starter hoot gibson
- Start date
Ted, that would have too be the understatement of the year.... Hoot???? Spoil his grandson????? rotflmao I bet that little man has him wrapped tighter then all get out..... :smiley_clap:
Bowhunter57
Senior Member
hoot gibson,hoot gibson said:
I used to shoot a recurve (Assenheimer) and a buddy of mine still does and he's always about heavy arrows. His philosophy is that a traditional bow isn't a "speed demon", so why mess around with what's been working for decades. He shoots both wood and heavy aluminum arrows with turkey feathers off of a shelf.
I've always enjoyed shooting traditional, but have a hard time breaking away from the "pin point" accuracy of my compound. :smiley_chinrub: I'd like to try one of the new Hoyt recurves, like the Buffalo or the GameMaster II.
Bowhunter57
P.S. I think that I've shot with you at the OBA shoots, but that was over 15 years ago. I may have shot with you at the Rush Creek traditional shoots, near Kenton, but my memory isn't what it used to be...:smiley_depressive:
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I have a bunch of wood shafting I still haven't used, and may never. I shot wood arrahs for several years and always liked 'em. If you put enough feather on 'em they don't even need to be all that straight. I always shot parallel shafts too, never understood the "need" for tapered as the experts sometimes claimed. Mine were always cheap and easy to make, and shot pretty good. Having said that, I shoot carbon now, and don't see me going back to wood unless I decide to shoot the IBO crap again. Carbons won't warp when they get wet, you can beat em against trees, rocks, or pick up trucks and they generally don't break...they are just hard to tear up! And btw, I agree with ya, a lot of relatively "new" trad shooters talk a good game. Usually they are the only ones that think they are bright.:smiley_crocodile:
I'm a "new" Trad shooter and I suck. I also shoot custom Milo woodies. My bow once belonged to a legend named Mullskinner. I sure miss him...
hard to beat properly built wooden arrows . with the right grain to the wood and proper finnish they are just as durable and strong as any other. but the probelem is , there just aint any great shafts out there any more . premium shafts are history now . they still sale them , but they just lowed there standerds.
Archertl
Senior Member
Damn jesse if you got jamie miller to touch your bow it would probably shoot lighting bolts. Oh wait being that it is a AS recurce bow he probably did.
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Dad's arrows from 50 years ago are of better quality than anything I have ever put together and I'm certain its the quality of the shafting that has kept them straight and intact. Pretty sure I'll not have any carbons that long, but they get a lil more use than Dad's ever did.
well brock , i spent a hour or so with the compound . i realise it aint the best of bows . an old bear white tail two . but it functions great . i just think there is to many things to worry about . got under my skin , its now on the floor of the shop ..lol. im going back to pullin the string and when it feels rite . turn it loose .
and if you want some good shafts i got some hickory for ya . talk about having to work to getaa shaft straight . but when you do they are tuff. and heavy
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Thanks for the offer Hoot. Geezer made me up some carbons that I'm shooting right now so I'm all good. Thanks again tho...
say what? :smiley_confused_vra 'splain yourself, Archertl.
I've been helping a friend work up his first batch of wood arrows. got me to thinking that nobody talks much about wood arrahs anymore, so I started browsing and found this thread. I've been shooting and hunting with douglas fir shafts from Surewood Shafts for a couple of years now. finest quality wood arrows I've seen since Acme Premiums from 25 years ago. available in the entire range of spines and a wide variety of grain weights within any given spine group. the four dozen or so I've got are very, very high quality. point being is there are quality wood shafts available. doug fir recovers well, and they seem to be a little more durable than cedar. the folks at Surewood are very helpful and great to deal with, too.
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If I ever get back into shooting wood, I'll take this under advisement Squirrely. What do you seal your shafting with? (The first one of you clowns that says latex is getting clubbed). I used a couple of different "sealers", but it seemed to me, and I may have been wrong, that I never got it quite right no matter how hard I tried. Given enough rain, they always seemed to water log at least a little which really affected their performance... I mean a couple hours of hard rain and they would fly funky even with fairly dry feathers. It could have just been my mind's way of excusing my bad performance on occasion, but I had myself pretty well convinced I should have done a better job sealing the shafts.
I use either gasket lacquer or spar urethane(reduced 20-25% for dipping). can't say that I've ever had any trouble with wet arrows beyond the feathers giving out. my hunting arrows have three natural wild turkey feathers on them, which stand up(literally) to more than twice as much water as domestic turkey feathers. oils in wild bird feathers repel water. I hear goose feathers are even better for that, but I've never tested that.
many professional fletchers use Daley's Profin, which is an oil modified urethane. doubt it is any better than spar urethane other than drying faster. gasket lacquer is the easiest, fastest arrow finish ever. lacquer is not the most durable finish, but it doesn't need to be unless you are shooting hardwood arrows, which tend to misbehave if moisture gets to them. for cedar, fir, spruce, pine, etc. it doesn't seem to matter much if your arrows are straight to begin with. unless you store them in the creek for a couple of days, that is.
many professional fletchers use Daley's Profin, which is an oil modified urethane. doubt it is any better than spar urethane other than drying faster. gasket lacquer is the easiest, fastest arrow finish ever. lacquer is not the most durable finish, but it doesn't need to be unless you are shooting hardwood arrows, which tend to misbehave if moisture gets to them. for cedar, fir, spruce, pine, etc. it doesn't seem to matter much if your arrows are straight to begin with. unless you store them in the creek for a couple of days, that is.
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I used Helmsman most usually. The only time I had trouble, was of course when I least needed it. I shot them at IBO shoots, and it would rain for all three days at seemingly every dang shoot. Back then, the max range was 30 yards and most every target was at that range. Those longer shots made it appear after a time the arrows would get heavier - the bow just wouldn't cast them as flat as it would at the start of the shoots. Water logging was the only thing that made sense to me. I never actually put them on a scale, but to me they actually felt heavier. May have just been in my head...
Thunderflight
Dignitary Member
There are pro's and con's to wooden arrows.
The pro's are that they are heavy, more forgiving, and look sexy (if built correctly).
The con is that when you are a beginner you are going to break a lot of them. The only other con I can think of is when your glue comes undone and when you shoot at a legit 350 to 400 pound Alaskan Black bear who is 15 yards broadside to you and the broad head comes off causing the arrow to hit the bear sideways (It's OK I couldn't afford another rug anyway and actually that was my fault to because I heard it pop the night before when I put in back in my quiver).
Dang, now that I think of it I may break out my wooden arrows for my elk hunt.......... I need to re-glue all the heads, but it wouldn't take much to get them sharp again. I need to see how they perform out to 40 yards first....... BTW these are the Geezer bear arrar's that he made me while I was in Iraq.
The pro's are that they are heavy, more forgiving, and look sexy (if built correctly).
The con is that when you are a beginner you are going to break a lot of them. The only other con I can think of is when your glue comes undone and when you shoot at a legit 350 to 400 pound Alaskan Black bear who is 15 yards broadside to you and the broad head comes off causing the arrow to hit the bear sideways (It's OK I couldn't afford another rug anyway and actually that was my fault to because I heard it pop the night before when I put in back in my quiver).
Dang, now that I think of it I may break out my wooden arrows for my elk hunt.......... I need to re-glue all the heads, but it wouldn't take much to get them sharp again. I need to see how they perform out to 40 yards first....... BTW these are the Geezer bear arrar's that he made me while I was in Iraq.
Hey Brock,
Could it have been a wet stretched out string that caused it to do that more then the arrow itself? Just wondering if the the string strectching from being wet would have changed your normal anchoring spot and when you anchored at your normal spot the poundage was different? Also, could the string being wet and heavier cause more drag dropping the speed?
Just a few things that came to mind and was curious about.
I think a wet string would definitely affect the first shot. one shot and most excess water would be flung from the string, unless you are in the middle of a serious downpour while shooting the whole time. if it is humid enough for long enough, that alone could affect the spine of an arrow(higher moisture content weakens spine). I sure don't think that exposure to rain would force moisture through even cheap polyurethane as it is an excellent moisture barrier. Is really hard to say what the problem was for you, Brock, but wet or just damp feathers will slow down a light arrow noticeably. doesn't seem to slow down heavy arrows a much, but still can slow them down enough to matter at 30 yards. I'm actually in the middle of dipping some new huntin arrahs right now. since I'm lazy, I'm going with gasket lacquer. I just don't bother hunting in heavy rains much anymore unless it's in the middle of November.
Thunderflight
Dignitary Member
Just did a comparison between carbon and wood.
My Gold Tips averaged 8-10 inches better in penetration.
The weights between the two are closer than I thought, but I think the smaller diameter is what makes the difference. Since elk are large and penetration is a concern I'm sticking with carbon. I'll probably use wood during deer season though.
My Gold Tips averaged 8-10 inches better in penetration.
The weights between the two are closer than I thought, but I think the smaller diameter is what makes the difference. Since elk are large and penetration is a concern I'm sticking with carbon. I'll probably use wood during deer season though.