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Diesel truck info.

The problem with a vehicle that old is it would have to be a signature loan with a higher APR versus a vehicle loan with a low APR. I typically go through my Local Credit Union and I'm pretty sure their cut off on a loan is 10 year old vehicles.

Old retired finance mgr. advice here. A lower amount of a loan with a slightly high finance rate is always cheaper on the length of the loan than a much higher loan amount with a lower finance rate. Just simple math.
A good deal on a older truck with low mileage is always a lower cost in the long run.
For example of my 2001 Toyota Tundra I bought 6 months ago. 16 years old with 52,000 miles for $6000. Had to invest in $650 tires and oil change. I did pay cash for it but even a higher finance rate on that low amount is still much better than a $25-35,000 truck loan at a lower or even 0% interest rate. The final total cost is what counts.

Buy a much lower price truck to drive and take the difference saved and put it into a untouchable savings account. In 10-15 yrs you will be able to buy your dream hunting property with free money not spent on dream trucks. Only thing lost is that warm and fuzzy feeling over the years.

Been there and done it. I now own my dream hunting property for myself and family. Plus it will be passed on to my loved ones when I don't need it anymore.

Over the years I was a Consumer Finance Office Manager I seen 1000's of customers just piss away millions of dollars on warm and fuzzy feelings. I learnt from that in my way of living.

I'm out of this and hoped I passed on some good advise.
Carry on.
 
Old retired finance mgr. advice here. A lower amount of a loan with a slightly high finance rate is always cheaper on the length of the loan than a much higher loan amount with a lower finance rate. Just simple math.
A good deal on a older truck with low mileage is always a lower cost in the long run.
For example of my 2001 Toyota Tundra I bought 6 months ago. 16 years old with 52,000 miles for $6000. Had to invest in $650 tires and oil change. I did pay cash for it but even a higher finance rate on that low amount is still much better than a $25-35,000 truck loan at a lower or even 0% interest rate. The final total cost is what counts.

Buy a much lower price truck to drive and take the difference saved and put it into a untouchable savings account. In 10-15 yrs you will be able to buy your dream hunting property with free money not spent on dream trucks. Only thing lost is that warm and fuzzy feeling over the years.

Been there and done it. I now own my dream hunting property for myself and family. Plus it will be passed on to my loved ones when I don't need it anymore.

Over the years I was a Consumer Finance Office Manager I seen 1000's of customers just piss away millions of dollars on warm and fuzzy feelings. I learnt from that in my way of living.

I'm out of this and hoped I passed on some good advise.
Carry on.

Take that to the bank! I've been trying to do this very same things for years, it ain't easy. I gave this same advice to another TOO member just a few months ago.
 
Take that to the bank! I've been trying to do this very same things for years, it ain't easy. I gave this same advice to another TOO member just a few months ago.

No it's not easy but later when you look at the rewards in your later years and you will say 'OMG it's a nice outcome and it's free to'. I'm here to tell you I'm living it now in my later years and it's a good feeling.
 
Old retired finance mgr. advice here. A lower amount of a loan with a slightly high finance rate is always cheaper on the length of the loan than a much higher loan amount with a lower finance rate. Just simple math.
A good deal on a older truck with low mileage is always a lower cost in the long run.
For example of my 2001 Toyota Tundra I bought 6 months ago. 16 years old with 52,000 miles for $6000. Had to invest in $650 tires and oil change. I did pay cash for it but even a higher finance rate on that low amount is still much better than a $25-35,000 truck loan at a lower or even 0% interest rate. The final total cost is what counts.

Buy a much lower price truck to drive and take the difference saved and put it into a untouchable savings account. In 10-15 yrs you will be able to buy your dream hunting property with free money not spent on dream trucks. Only thing lost is that warm and fuzzy feeling over the years.

Been there and done it. I now own my dream hunting property for myself and family. Plus it will be passed on to my loved ones when I don't need it anymore.

Over the years I was a Consumer Finance Office Manager I seen 1000's of customers just piss away millions of dollars on warm and fuzzy feelings. I learnt from that in my way of living.

I'm out of this and hoped I passed on some good advise.
Carry on.
Very solid advice indeed bud.

 
I am deciding what I am getting next, soon. Probably a Ram 2500 crew cab. I tow everyday but a diesel just doesn't pay for me. The main reason is a turn most of my own wrenches. I know jack about diesels.

The Kubota will be cake for a decent half ton. I have airbags which helps but I tow these all the time.

The only reason I am looking into a 2500 is because of also getting a travel trailer.

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I am deciding what I am getting next, soon. Probably a Ram 2500 crew cab. I tow everyday but a diesel just doesn't pay for me. The main reason is a turn most of my own wrenches. I know jack about diesels.

The Kubota will be cake for a decent half ton. I have airbags which helps but I tow these all the time.

The only reason I am looking into a 2500 is because of also getting a travel trailer.

d2fdea19eef55f47dfe9f92466394bd1.jpg
c0c547aa5b3153d9d469023e5632abbe.jpg
How has that painted front bumper held up for you with rocks and such. I was looking at this truck yesterday. 5.7 4x4 leather with backup cam etc. 2015 with 14k miles. Listed at 28k so likely 26k.

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No issue. The only maintenance issue I have had is I am replacing a CV this week. Not "needed" yet but I am getting it out of the way. No noise or chatter but it is moving a bit. For $76 I will just replace it. Mine is a 2009. Oh, I replaced a speed sensor also. $9, 5 minutes and an 8mm wrench.

 
Ask me why I'll never again buy GM.

That's the low pressure AC line sitting on top of the front brake line. Vibration wore a hole through it.

Had a slow leak somewhere and threw a UV dye in the AC and ran a black Light on it.

5fbb3753e2742de3fd4b03a4b7cafb53.jpg
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Not a diesel, but I did buy this truck today. It has the 3.5 Eco with the 10 speed transmission. Supposed to get 18 city and 23 highway. Also has a 36 gallon tank so I can go over 600 miles between stops. This will be the cleanest that this truck will ever be. LOL.

 
Ask me why I'll never again buy GM.

That's the low pressure AC line sitting on top of the front brake line. Vibration wore a hole through it.

Had a slow leak somewhere and threw a UV dye in the AC and ran a black Light on it.

5fbb3753e2742de3fd4b03a4b7cafb53.jpg
5f60c1159e411e5169583774c5babb68.jpg

Lol, sorry to see this Joe but I had to laugh at your comment. You are telling me that you would rather have a full frame replacement or a stuck accelerator or an ignition problem or a fire problem? It's manufacturing and assembly. They all come with a warranty and once it's out of that warranty it's fair game. Do you know the previous owner of the car? Did it only see pavement like a caddy with 400hp on a corvette chassis is designed and intended to be used on? I'm not saying you taking back roads home from work or flyin down stone roads like at Woodbury would contribute to something like this but shit happens. I don't care if this wasn't a GM make, I would say the same thing. Hopefully it's a quick and cheap fix and you are back in business sooner than later. Or, sell the lemon and move on with the next one that will offer the same probability of having mechanical issues. Anything mechanical will have issues, not if but when. Buy the Ford diesel and then bitch about the cab off design. Buy the Dodge and complain about design and low quality component issues. Buy a GM and have the same issues you have had with the last 4 you have owned. Buy a Yota or a Honda and have some type of issue (the reason I can't list anything specific is not because they don't happen, but my limited/nonexistent experience with those makes). It's just a matter of time, good luck on picking the best soldier for the battle.
 
Not a diesel, but I did buy this truck today. It has the 3.5 Eco with the 10 speed transmission. Supposed to get 18 city and 23 highway. Also has a 36 gallon tank so I can go over 600 miles between stops. This will be the cleanest that this truck will ever be. LOL.


Thats a beaut Clark, enjoy! 10 speeds, holy moly!
 
Lol, sorry to see this Joe but I had to laugh at your comment. You are telling me that you would rather have a full frame replacement or a stuck accelerator or an ignition problem or a fire problem? It's manufacturing and assembly. They all come with a warranty and once it's out of that warranty it's fair game. Do you know the previous owner of the car? Did it only see pavement like a caddy with 400hp on a corvette chassis is designed and intended to be used on? I'm not saying you taking back roads home from work or flyin down stone roads like at Woodbury would contribute to something like this but shit happens. I don't care if this wasn't a GM make, I would say the same thing. Hopefully it's a quick and cheap fix and you are back in business sooner than later. Or, sell the lemon and move on with the next one that will offer the same probability of having mechanical issues. Anything mechanical will have issues, not if but when. Buy the Ford diesel and then bitch about the cab off design. Buy the Dodge and complain about design and low quality component issues. Buy a GM and have the same issues you have had with the last 4 you have owned. Buy a Yota or a Honda and have some type of issue (the reason I can't list anything specific is not because they don't happen, but my limited/nonexistent experience with those makes). It's just a matter of time, good luck on picking the best soldier for the battle.
I don't doubt other brands or models don't have their own problems. I'm just tired of the shit for brains GM engineers problems. You have a metal AC line and a metal brake line, what dumb fuck idiot runs them so close that they would ever even come close to touching. In reality I'm lucky it was the AC line and not the front brakes that wore through first. If there is ever the possibility of them touching put a rubber spacer between them.. what's that cost, 1/20th of a penny in bulk? Oh but I bet that pension fund is well taken care of.

 
I don't doubt other brands or models don't have their own problems. I'm just tired of the shit for brains GM engineers problems. You have a metal AC line and a metal brake line, what dumb fuck idiot runs them so close that they would ever even come close to touching. In reality I'm lucky it was the AC line and not the front brakes that wore through first. If there is ever the possibility of them touching put a rubber spacer between them.. what's that cost, 1/20th of a penny in bulk? Oh but I bet that pension fund is well taken care of.

Agreed but let's not assume there was not a spacer that didn't dry out due to age, std. wear and tear and fell off. Let's not assume that both lines are within spec length and meet the print to ensure proper clearance as required by the design. I dunno man, just don't see a full RCA to prove ownership of said issue. Maybe there is a bracket up stream or down stream that locates the lines properly for proper spacing that broke, loosened, etc. Glad it wasn't your front brakes either homes.

Don't be like Giles, make a decision and move on :)
 
Agreed but let's not assume there was not a spacer that didn't dry out due to age, std. wear and tear and fell off. Let's not assume that both lines are within spec length and meet the print to ensure proper clearance as required by the design. I dunno man, just don't see a full RCA to prove ownership of said issue. Maybe there is a bracket up stream or down stream that locates the lines properly for proper spacing that broke, loosened, etc. Glad it wasn't your front brakes either homes.

Don't be like Giles, make a decision and move on :)

Sounds like you're making excuses for domestic car makers and pointing out flaws on imports there Adam... Your prejudice is rearing its ugly head buddy...

GM has had numerous common issues with their truck line and haven't stepped up to remedy their issues...
Brake lines rusting out, fuel lines rusting out, 4x4 hubs not lasting a 100k and the list goes on... Look up morning sickness and GM motors...
Won't even start on ford or ram trucks as they have multiple issues as well that they don't stand behind... I've had ford and Chevy and refuse to own a ram/dodge since they are embarrassed to put the dodge badge on them anymore....
But it is what it is, your a Chevy guy (for now) and I'm on the import kick until they let me down then I'll buy a bicycle and sell all of my toys.... Or just buy a great set of walking shoes lmao...



 
Not a diesel, but I did buy this truck today. It has the 3.5 Eco with the 10 speed transmission. Supposed to get 18 city and 23 highway. Also has a 36 gallon tank so I can go over 600 miles between stops. This will be the cleanest that this truck will ever be. LOL.


Good looking ride. Just remember, the fuel mileage (Ecoboost or not) is directly affected by your control of the throttle. If you didn't get good mileage before, you will likely still not get good mileage. A light throttle foot is the only answer to maximum gas mileage. My neighbor is retired from Ford. He enlightens me often. Doesn't push Fords on me. "Just the facts" kind of guy. One of his friends bought a vehicle thru him on some friends and family plan. The guy complained about the mileage. Neighbor guy asked him how he drove it. Guy said "Same way I drive all my vehicles. I never get good mileage."