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Live Hunt: Flying solo...

Milo

Tatonka guide.
8,189
171
Congrats Jesse



Really explain jim? most of my shots are at 25-35 yards. I've been using a modified full choke. Im new to waterfowl hunting so im still learning.

The steel shot column does not have the compression abilities of a lead column. If you go too tight if can cause the wad ti distort and rip apart upon exiting tbe muzzle causing your shot column to open up immediately and get worse. I used to shoot an improved modified choke in my browning. The key to keeping a tight waterfowl pattern with steel is keeping the wad and shot column as one for as long as possible. The real key to shooting waterfowl is actually leading the head and not the body. They are optical illusions per se because their heads bareky show up in your vision and your body will naturally go to the largest object form which is the body. You have to be extra vigilant to get on the head and lock into one bird. I always liked the pull through method on swingin birds.
 

jagermeister

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
18,304
237
Ohio
The steel shot column does not have the compression abilities of a lead column. If you go too tight if can cause the wad ti distort and rip apart upon exiting tbe muzzle causing your shot column to open up immediately and get worse. I used to shoot an improved modified choke in my browning. The key to keeping a tight waterfowl pattern with steel is keeping the wad and shot column as one for as long as possible. The real key to shooting waterfowl is actually leading the head and not the body. They are optical illusions per se because their heads bareky show up in your vision and your body will naturally go to the largest object form which is the body. You have to be extra vigilant to get on the head and lock into one bird. I always liked the pull through method on swingin birds.

Leading the head, I agree with. It's tough to do, but it yields the best results. And like you, I also prefer the pull-through method on birds.

I don't agree with the shot column stuff, though. I don't agree that the key is keeping the shot with the wad as long as possible. In fact, I don't want a long string of shot at all. I want a ball of shot, which is accomplished by stripping the wad from the shot as soon as possible. This is how the Kick's and Patternmaster choke tubes function. Patternmasters utilize studs inside the choke to grab the wad, whereas the Kick's chokes utilize reverse-porting to grab the wad. If you have a long shot string, you're not going to hit the bird with very many pellets... you only hit them with part of the string. However, when you send a massive ball of shot at them, you hit them with many more pellets at the same time, thereby resulting in a more lethal impact, and far fewer cripples.

Here's is what I meant by the "choke too tight - no such thing" comment... It was more of a joke really, but I still stand by it... Yes, you can overchoke a gun so much that the pattern blows apart. It's especially easy to do using steel shot. My comment was pointed at the patterns themselves, not so much the choke. IMO, there's no such thing as a pattern that's too tight for waterfowling. Waterfowl are tough birds with thick feathers... The more pellets on put in them the better. Non-toxic loads are expensive enough as it is. The last thing I want to do is burn them up on cripples that are trying to swim away. More pellets on impact = lesser chance of a cripple. I want pellets in the head, pellets in the bill, and broken wings. Yes, with a tighter pattern your chances of missing the bird go up. But it teaches you to be a better wingshooter, IMO. And for me, I'd much rather miss clean than be sailing crippled birds all day long. When you get dialed in with a super tight pattern, you rarely miss and the birds you shoot are dead... I mean fuggin stonecold, crumpled, doing a backflip over the decoys type of dead.
 

Milo

Tatonka guide.
8,189
171
Pattern master is doing the exact same thing as a wad only in reverse order. It strips the wad column and the shot disperses and then is immediately reorganized by the end if the choke tube. Its essentially a wadless wad...
 

bowhunter1023

Owner/Operator
Staff member
49,520
288
Appalachia
I'm not sure about all the technical stuff. What I know is that I had the fullest choke I own for steel in my gun and let loose on a load that travels 300+ fps after than what I have been shooting. I was down on the gun and laid the bead right on the head of that drake at 15 steps while he sat on the water. I watched the pattern hit the water way behind him. Had I aimed at the water in front of him, I'd have dusted his ass.

My rudimentary understanding of chokes is the fuller the choke, the tighter the pattern. The tighter the pattern, the less room for error on close shots. I would think having my IC choke in for this small hole would make more sense than my full. My simple ass thinks it makes perfect sense that you can shoot TOO tight a pattern for the situation if you aren't the best shot around and haven't yet mastered the performance of a new gun/ammo combo. I see what you're saying about no such thing given that if you aim right, it doesn't matter. However there is a reason they make close range chokes versus long range ones...
 
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Longdraw

Junior Member
496
102
Central,Ohio
Improved cylinder pure gold choke tube is all I have ever shot waterfowl hunting in my 12ga.,and I seem to take them down pretty good with it,I think the less restriction with steel the better it patterns