Welcome to TheOhioOutdoors
Wanting to join the rest of our members? Login or sign up today!
Login / Join

Marlin Classic 1894

I drove to Sportsman's Den, in Shelby this morning and purchased the last Marlin Classic 1894 in 44 Mag. that I could find anywhere. It just so happened that they had the lowest price too. :cool: Now, I gotta get started reloading, get to the range and get her sighted in for deer season. I'm hoping to bust a few coyotes with this rifle too. :sneaky:
Marlin 3.jpg

Marlin 5.jpg
 

CJD3

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
14,746
215
NE Ohio
Be very careful!
The polymer type tips are so when you load a tube feed like our Marlin, you don’t have a pointed bullet tip sitting on the primer of the round above it. Setting the gun down on the rear stock kinda hard could cause a chain fire reaction .
The soft plastic tip prevents that from happening.

It sure is a beautiful gun!

Check
Out the Leverelution (sp?)
 
Last edited:
@CJD3
Thank you, I appreciate your concern and it's valid. (y) I understand the reason for the polymer tips.

These Sierra bullets are flat-nosed lead tips (not hard jackets) and shouldn't cause any issues. :)
Just curious.... What are your experiences with the polymer tips having good terminal performance? :unsure:
 
  • Like
Reactions: CJD3

CJD3

Dignitary Member
Supporting Member
14,746
215
NE Ohio
I haven’t tried em in my RedHawk out of curiosity. It seems to like the 300gr Hornandy
JHP. I save the 180 gr for tourists . Lol

But as far as the Marlin, I’m sold on the Leverelutions. I just keep my shots about 50 yards or less. I usually hunt the hard woods anyway.

Is that the 18” or 20” barrel?
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bowhunter57
I haven’t tried em in my RedHawk out of curiosity. It seems to like the 300gr Hornandy
JHP. I save the 180 gr for tourists . Lol

But as far as the Marlin, I’m sold on the Leverelutions. I just keep my shots about 50 yards or less. I usually hunt the hard woods anyway.

Is that the 18” or 20” barrel?
Actually, it's a 20.25" barrel. (y)
Also, this is one of the Ruger Marlin rifles. On the bottom of the stock, just ahead of the rear sling stud, is a white circle with a red dot in the middle. That red dot is the symbol for the Ruger made Marlin rifles. 💯 If the white circle has a black dot, it was made by Remington or an earlier Marlin.
White Circle Red Dot.jpg
 
My first venture with H110, on my reloads, wasn't a good one. :rolleyes: The powder was horribly filthy on the chamber and the brass. A lot of unburned powder that made a couple of the brass cases stick to the chamber wall. Plus, the loads that I shot were kinda "punky" and didn't have much recoil. :mad: I never load more than 15 rounds before testing them out at the range, so I don't know what the hell I was doing by loading up 2 boxes (100 rounds). I had to get the RCBS bullet puller out and unload them all to save the bullets and primers. :cautious:

I purchased some IMR-4227, loaded up 10 rounds and shot them to see how they'd run in the rifle and get a ball park idea of their accuracy. Turns out, it was awesome!!! 💯 I shot them off of a sand bag on the door of my truck and had a consistent group at 22 yards of 3", which isn't a good or tight group at that distance, but I was checking for consistency. I'm sure I'll get better results at the range on a full bench. Snappy recoil and a clean chamber were the other 2 good perks. (y) 27 grains of this powder shows a 2005 fps, by Hodgdon's reloading data and with a 180 bullet, that'll get the job done.

I thought I'd better post this result for others using H110, as this was my first time using it. H110 is a very very small flake type powder and it didn't seem to entirely burned up, which caused a lot of fowling. IMR powders are a tubular type of powder and what doesn't get burnt down the barrel, gets pushed out of the barrel and not left behind to fowl the rifle action.
I've used many other brands and types of powders without this much fuss. :unsure: This also made me question the age of this particular can of powder. The price tag was still on the can and it was $15. A 1 lb. can is $60 these days. Hard to say how long ago this powder was purchased.