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Pole barn must haves...

Treated it for the second time this morning. Hopefully it holds until the July wedding. It normally holds until the beginning of July anyways.


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Finally had an hour of no wind. If it doesn't hold this time I will pump it out in the next couple of winters and just start all over with it. Going to stain it black again because I think it looks good in the woods.
 
I have multiple types of shelves like that.

Those are better than the ones that have the plastic slide down for method for adjusting the sizes.

My favorite if you want taller stuff can be connected together onto one big one.

more like these
48" Wide EZ Connect Rack with Five 18" Deep Shelves | Gladiator https://share.google/RmlpGMWaqr0ZAaSdd
 
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I have scraped 'alot' of great ideas off this thread. Nobody's as smart as all of us. Metal truss building -> wood in the dirt here = termite snacks. Engineered for 165mph windload. There's a highrise amount of concrete in the dirt below it.

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Take a look, LMK with any markups for changes to the Barn electrical?

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Estimated Cooling/Heating Load​

Using a conservative approximation for a well-insulated metal building (8-10 ft ceilings, minimal windows, commercial/light residential use like a workshop/garage):

  • Cooling Load: ~5-6 tons (60,000-72,000 BTU/h) total. (Rule of thumb: 25-30 BTU/sq ft in FL's climate zone 1A; higher if poor insulation or high internal heat gains.)
  • Heating Load: Minimal, ~2-3 tons (24,000-36,000 BTU/h) for shoulder seasons—heat pumps handle this efficiently.
  • Key FL Factors: High latent load (humidity) means systems must dehumidify effectively (aim for 50-60% RH indoors). Energy code requires SEER2 15+ efficiency.
This load supports either option, but ductwork adds complexity in a prefab metal build.

Mini-Split Systems (Ductless)​

Mini-splits (wall- or ceiling-mounted indoor units connected to outdoor condensers) are ideal for open-span metal buildings. You'd use a multi-zone system (one outdoor unit serving multiple indoor heads) or multiple single-zone units.

  • How Many Units?For even coverage in 2,520 sq ft:
    • 3-4 indoor units recommended (e.g., two 18,000 BTU heads for main areas, one 12,000 BTU for ends/corners). This zones the space (cool zones independently) without overworking one unit.
    • Total: 5-6 tons split across units. Example config: Mitsubishi or Daikin multi-zone outdoor unit (48,000-60,000 BTU) + 3 heads.
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LED Lighting Layout Blueprint – 40'x72' × 4/12 Pitch Metal Building​

Goal: Zero-shadow, dimmable, tunable-white (2700K–4500K) illumination in two independently dimmable zones using high-bay LED fixtures.


Fixture Specs (Recommended)

ParameterValue
Type150W UFO-style high-bay LED (20,000 lm @ 4000K)
CRI80+
Tunable CCT2700K → 4500K (via 0–10V or app)
Dimming0–10V (smooth 1–100%)
Beam Angle120° (wide flood)
Mount Height16'–18' AFF (above finished floor)
Lifespan100,000 hrs
Cost~$180/ea (e.g., Lithonia CPX or WareLight)




Lighting Zones

text

Code:
ZONE A (Front 36') 
ZONE B (Rear 36')
 
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On or off topic… not sure… But after several years of owning multiple pole buildings, and seeing others being built… If I were building another one, I wouldn’t put any posts in the ground no matter what the circumstances or where I live. I’d pour the footers about 12-18” above grade, and then mount my poles to those with steel brackets. I’m sure there’s a name for those. Having short concrete “walls” around the perimeter of the barn is so much better for longevity and rodent prevention.
 
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