Thanks Milo...

[Beentown]

Depends on the bow also IMHO.

A good tuner can have most bows shooting better than the shooter can produce. For super fine tuning I would want to be the shooter but most can't shoot well enough to see the difference between a good tuned bow and a great one. Hell, most don't even have the right draw length (not even close many times) and think it is perfect.

Most issues with consistency are with the grip/dl.

 

[Big_Holla]

Good points Jesse and Beentown. Isn't it true on a single cam bow there isn't much to tune, whereas the dual cam is the one that requires the most attention?

 

[Beentown]

Good points Jesse and Beentown. Isn't it true on a single cam bow there isn't much to tune, whereas the dual cam is the one that requires the most attention?

Meh, each has its plusses and minuses.

Single - has a HUGE string that tends to go outta whack faster but you only have to really worry about the one came/string path.

Hybrid - best speeds and great tunability but usually has some nock travel issues and can lean

OD binary - best system imho...on paper anyway.

Binaries - cam lean but good speeds

All of them do great. Just like life everything has a compromise.

 

[Milo]

Good points Jesse and Beentown. Isn't it true on a single cam bow there isn't much to tune, whereas the dual cam is the one that requires the most attention?

Sorry for the delay, beentown nailed a bunch of it but i will add my own in.

Single cams are very easy
Dual or binary cams are very easy
OD binaries are really cool and easy
Hybrids are the most fun to play with due to the fact that you can monkey with them and change the feel of them a lot. You can do micro adjustment to the draw length which is a nice feature.

 

[Beentown]

Sorry for the delay, beentown nailed a bunch of it but i will add my own in.

Single cams are very easy
Dual or binary cams are very easy
OD binaries are really cool and easy
Hybrids are the most fun to play with due to the fact that you can monkey with them and change the feel of them a lot. You can do micro adjustment to the draw length which is a nice feature.

X2

Hybrids are the "funnest" for me because you can do anything you want with them. Half a twist in the cables each way and you can actually see/tell the difference. But IMHO it is not a system for the beginner to learn on unless patient. But I also believe it is the best system because it SHOWS you causality.

Dang, this thread has me wanting to put down the reloads and pick up the bow. I never did get the new sight squared away.

 

[Big_Holla]

So for the laymen and uneducated bowmen (which I can easily fall into that category) when we talk about "tuning" we aren't just talking about fine tuning the rest location and nocking point. What else goes into 'tuning' a bow, what are you checking and looking for to tweak for some of the different set-ups? The reason I ask is because there are people like me who go into a bow shop, buy a new bow and go home with it not having a clue as to what really goes into the true tuning of a bow.

 

[Milo]

So for the laymen and uneducated bowmen (which I can easily fall into that category) when we talk about "tuning" we aren't just talking about fine tuning the rest location and nocking point. What else goes into 'tuning' a bow, what are you checking and looking for to tweak for some of the different set-ups? The reason I ask is because there are people like me who go into a bow shop, buy a new bow and go home with it not having a clue as to what really goes into the true tuning of a bow.

cam timing, cam sync, chrono'd, paper tuned, draw length check, draw weight, yoke tuned(for some but mostly done in paper tuning), cam shimming, speed nock's optimized etc. you can do a lot of other things like changing the draw force curves and peak loading and also tweek the let off on some designs.

 

[bowhunter1023]

Bow tuning is a lot like working on a car. An oil change and tire rotation is the basic service you get at the local Wal-Mart. But a real mechanic can gut the car, tweak it, and give it back to you twice the machine it was when you brought it in. Most bow shops are the Wal-Marts of the car care world...

 

[Ricer2231]

Bow tuning is a lot like working on a car. An oil change and tire rotation is the basic service you get at the local Wal-Mart. But a real mechanic can gut the car, tweak it, and give it back to you twice the machine it was when you brought it in. Most bow shops are the Wal-Marts of the car care world...

Or the case in my area, most are like the Goodwill.

 

[Big_Holla]

Bow tuning is a lot like working on a car. An oil change and tire rotation is the basic service you get at the local Wal-Mart. But a real mechanic can gut the car, tweak it, and give it back to you twice the machine it was when you brought it in. Most bow shops are the Wal-Marts of the car care world...

I couldn't agree more! How often do you get a bow right from the manufacturer that is set up correctly or do you think they are just thrown together and shipped out? I am asking all of these questions because I am actually going in to pay off my bow tonight and would like to get off on the right foot with them.

 

[bowhunter1023]

IMO, a bow needs tuned right out of the box. It may be in spec, but that does not mean there aren't tweaks that can be made to improve the bows performance. You'll need to set nock height and install a peep, so while you are doing that you should also shoot it through paper. Any shop that does not readily offer paper tuning should not be in business. It is like pulling teeth with some of them because it means more work. Or exposure to the fact that they don't have a clue what they are doing.

 

[Ricer2231]

IMO, a bow needs tuned right out of the box. It may be in spec, but that does not mean there aren't tweaks that can be made to improve the bows performance. You'll need to set nock height and install a peep, so while you are doing that you should also shoot it through paper. Any shop that does not readily offer paper tuning should not be in business. It is like pulling teeth with some of them because it means more work. Or exposure to the fact that they don't have a clue what they are doing.

Agreed. 100 %^^^^^^^

 

[runhunter]

Milo didn't tune my bow, due to some geographic constraints, however he did push me towards using an arrow that's 60+ grains heavier than I am used to. While I personally can't speak for his bow work, I can say his advice on arrow selection now has my GT Pro Hunter's blowing through the back side of the Block, when my old Beman's only penetrated about 8-10". They're shooting great, hitting hard, and going where they're supposed to. What else can ya ask for??? I can't wait to hear that "thump" on a body cavity

 

[Big_Holla]

Thanks for all of the information fella's, I think I've learned a lot here!! Oh and thanks Curran for letting me hijack your thread TOO!! rotflmao

 

[Curran]

Thanks for all of the information fella's, I think I've learned a lot here!! Oh and thanks Curran for letting me hijack your thread TOO!! rotflmao

That's what it's here for buddy! I've been learning along with ya.

Having the convenience (or good fortune) of living close to Milo & of buying Milo's bow also probably helps with how well this thing shoots. We put new mods (to accommodate my draw length) & limbs on it (since I'm a beast), and all my accessories, but he set it up. Granted, I was there for the process, but really the only adjustment that I would've needed to be there for is the peep alignment. Which by good fortune was pretty much right where it needed to be anyway.

All I've had to do is re-sight in all my pins. Which is my only complaint about this bow... (& it's not a complaint) So far I've got the 20, 30, and 40 yard pin sighted in. My complaint is that they're almost too close! I have about 2 to 3 inches of drop from 20 to 30 yards, so what I might do is leave my 20 yard stationary, then sight the next pin in for a distance of 35 yards. It just depends on how much drop I have at that distance. I may just leave them as is too, I need to think on what my preference is still.

 

[Jackalope]

That's what it's here for buddy! I've been learning along with ya.

Having the convenience (or good fortune) of living close to Milo & of buying Milo's bow also probably helps with how well this thing shoots. We put new mods (to accommodate my draw length) & limbs on it (since I'm a beast), and all my accessories, but he set it up. Granted, I was there for the process, but really the only adjustment that I would've needed to be there for is the peep alignment. Which by good fortune was pretty much right where it needed to be anyway.

All I've had to do is re-sight in all my pins. Which is my only complaint about this bow... (& it's not a complaint) So far I've got the 20, 30, and 40 yard pin sighted in. My complaint is that they're almost too close! I have about 2 to 3 inches of drop from 20 to 30 yards, so what I might do is leave my 20 yard stationary, then sight the next pin in for a distance of 35 yards. It just depends on how much drop I have at that distance. I may just leave them as is too, I need to think on what my preference is still.

Mine is only 60 pounds and it absolutely slams arrows home. I've always shot real slim Easton axis arrows but I'm thinking of switching to line cutters for no other reason than they're easier to pull out of targets.

 

[Ricer2231]

Mine is only 60 pounds and it absolutely slams arrows home. I've always shot real slim Easton axis arrows but I'm thinking of switching to line cutters for no other reason than they're easier to pull out of targets.

Mine is the exact same way, 62# and 27 1/2" arrow. I shoot the Easton Axis shafts and they weigh in right at 425g. I shoot my bag target and at 30 yards the arrow smacking home will definitely make it swing. I just can't wait to hear it smack a rib cage!

P. S. this bow has also had the Milo tune put on it! no need to say any more.

 

[Milo]

Milo, do you tune everything by shooting the bow yourself or do you have the bow owner there to do it as you make the adjustments?

I am sorry that i missed this post ChuckC. I shoot the bow mostly but i will have others shoot the bow also to double check me at times to be sure i have it where i want it. Beentown has come over before and shot bows for me as a check. He knows his way around bows too(he wont admit it). Once a bow is performing like i want it to, i usually let the owner shoot it and I actually spend more time with the shooter than i do the bow at times. You have to understand the design and where to begin and where you should be ending. There are some exceptions at times, but not very often. You have to have an open mind when you start in with them and explore over and under twisting to see if it gets an better or worse. i like taking a bow past its sweet spot to be sure i have found the sweet spot. Some bow designs allow this while others do not.

 

[bowhunter1023]

Can't wait to start slinging these missiles around! :smiley_clap:

 

[Curran]

Mine is only 60 pounds and it absolutely slams arrows home. I've always shot real slim Easton axis arrows but I'm thinking of switching to line cutters for no other reason than they're easier to pull out of targets.

Mine is the exact same way, 62# and 27 1/2" arrow. I shoot the Easton Axis shafts and they weigh in right at 425g. I shoot my bag target and at 30 yards the arrow smacking home will definitely make it swing. I just can't wait to hear it smack a rib cage!

P. S. this bow has also had the Milo tune put on it! no need to say any more.

Same here. Easton Bloodline 330s at 27.5". It's a slammer for sure. I have a block style target, and if I'm aiming at spots off to the right side for example, the arrows will turn the target to the right. It's just fun to shoot!