Needs to be drained and lined. It doesn't hold much water.
Pole barn must haves...
- Thread starter giles
- Start date
Like idiots, caulk. I'll get up there next year and add some boards. Then just put screws in it. A "deal" is hardly ever a deal. Stick with a reputable building and pay for it to be done right. I got screwed all the way around in this deal.
Hate that, I am sure you pushed back. Once you put screws in it should be fine. I hope they are on the ridges or the panels
I have an 2 car garage/out building about 75 yards from the house. Its been on a separate meter from years ago by Dad's choice. I started to question why the bill was so high and called the elect co. They said because its a free standing building, they have a $75.00 base fee then and elect used is added to that. ($5-20/mo) I went off on em. "Its a friggen out building on a private drive, in the country!"
" Doesn't matter they said"
" OK then. Fuck you. Pull the meter. I'll run a generator to power my stuff in there till I can trench a line from my house..."
So I guess the point is to check and see if your elect co is pulling the same shit.
( ya. I'm still mad about it)
Add some of the rubber grommet screws where they made the extra holes. For added insurance you could peel up the sheets and caulk, then screw them back down. Sucks that you paid for it and it turned out that way.
Yep, it's a std. fee for the meter. Found the same thing when trying to size our house panel.
There’s really no benefit to metering it separately, especially given the extra monthly fee. Even if you had to upgrade the service to your house to add the extra capacity to feed the barn, you’re still money ahead. Upgrading a 100 amp service to 200 or 200 to 400 typically doesn’t involve any upgrades on the power co. side that would be passed on to the customer.
My house panel is basically full.
Now, if the service wire to my house is 350, I can see your point. It can hold another panel without issue. Being the distance I am from the transformer, I would need to open it up and check. If it is smaller than 350, it won't hold by the time I ran back to the barn.
Currently, DP&L doesn't charge you for an extra service on the same property. Unless commercially zoned. BUT, I do pay them using a third party. I guess I need to check with them.
Distance from the xformer will be the deciding factor in your case for sure. It’s amazing how lenient the power co will be with themselves on wire size for secondaries if it’s to their advantage to leave it alone lol. I’ve seen em give the ok to utilize existing 2/0 u/g secondary on a 400a upgrade just to not have to screw with it. Just depends on which engineer you get on which day for the consult, I guess
99% there, signing contract next week with a 4-6wk start. Multi-use Ag building, animals & storage for time being, and then eventually insualted & heated shop as I near retirement and boys are out. What am I missing?
Thought ofs, final decisions already made on:
- Can't go any bigger, has to be smaller than house and we wanted a nice big porch for entertainment reasons.
- No house wrap between poles and siding and sticking with std. girts vs. commercial/bookshelf style. This is because i want flexibility for framing out walls how I want based on insulation choice down the road. Vapor barrier would be on inside then. Builder said only wrap if I plan to spray foam and I will not.
- No electric for a year or 2, so looking at a 3rd window up top on that side with 2 already and 2 on the back above the slider, waiting on drawing to see how it looks. No polycarbonate paneling under eve, the windows will be finish ready and will not condensate like the poly. No garage door windows to keep front completely closed/private.
-1/2 concrete now in barn to allow clean and dry up front for storage. Back stays dirt/gravel for stalls, future floor drain, future lift location (not locked in now with crete).
- Keeping porch unfinished so we can stain the wood same as front of house to tie in. Also will add fans and can lights when I do electric so I prefer the rafters open for time being.
- Was going to do all black windows and doors but the white looks better with the white house, was just too dark. The color in the picture above is darker charcoal than actual.
Outside of maybe a few more fixed 2'x6' windows and maybe upgrade poles to green poles, or add protectors, what else to make this pig solid now and easy lipstick later?
Thought ofs, final decisions already made on:
- Can't go any bigger, has to be smaller than house and we wanted a nice big porch for entertainment reasons.
- No house wrap between poles and siding and sticking with std. girts vs. commercial/bookshelf style. This is because i want flexibility for framing out walls how I want based on insulation choice down the road. Vapor barrier would be on inside then. Builder said only wrap if I plan to spray foam and I will not.
- No electric for a year or 2, so looking at a 3rd window up top on that side with 2 already and 2 on the back above the slider, waiting on drawing to see how it looks. No polycarbonate paneling under eve, the windows will be finish ready and will not condensate like the poly. No garage door windows to keep front completely closed/private.
-1/2 concrete now in barn to allow clean and dry up front for storage. Back stays dirt/gravel for stalls, future floor drain, future lift location (not locked in now with crete).
- Keeping porch unfinished so we can stain the wood same as front of house to tie in. Also will add fans and can lights when I do electric so I prefer the rafters open for time being.
- Was going to do all black windows and doors but the white looks better with the white house, was just too dark. The color in the picture above is darker charcoal than actual.
Outside of maybe a few more fixed 2'x6' windows and maybe upgrade poles to green poles, or add protectors, what else to make this pig solid now and easy lipstick later?
Drains with easy cleanouts for wild game processing
I'd make the walls/ stalls adjustable so you can easily move them to clean out with skid steer
I'd make the walls/ stalls adjustable so you can easily move them to clean out with skid steer
Yep, floor drain is future back 1/2 when poured, and stalls will be modular.
All manure will be manual for quite a few years. These boys need to develop grip, forearm, and full body strength that only 5 gal. buckets and wheelbarrows provide
Sgt Fury
Sgt. Spellchecker
I’d run the electric and water also so that it’s there when finishing it up later. Also, if you have gas, run the lines now…and maybe an extra conduit or two for future use. It’ll be a lot easier to do it while building compared to after it’s already done.
Sgt, they both will be secondary to the build by choice, for both budget and attention detail reasons. We just built the house in 2020 and there are 3 outside sockets and 1 hose bib in the corner by the shop about 35-40 'away. Alittle walking, extension cords and hoses will have to do for now lol.
Also right there is the house electric panel but same as Dave, only a few open slots left, not enough to run 100amp to barn. The ground transformer is only 80' from the front of the pole barn and zip have sch. 80 under the drive now to run a direct line, so plan to do 200amp and do it right.
Should also mention no change on trusses. I will do a loft for hay/straw/storage if the need arises.
I have a 30x40 and the 30' deep isn't quite wide enough. 36' should be good. The reality is: it won't be enough. Add another 10' and it still will not be enough. That said, build it so it can be added into later. If you end up with a 30x80 or 30x100 in 10-20-30 years. . . So be it.
