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No Till Food Plots - So Easy

Stressless

Active Member
2,446
90
Keene, OH
Albert, like in my case, which is even less than Jesse's i.e., no tractor, no drill and no crimper and roughly 11 acres of plots, what would be your recommendation(s) ... well lol, besides buy a tractor, crimper and drill, to best realize your No-till way to yearly sow and terminate the plot crop? Maybe a recommendation on the better or best of your blends that work without the aid of the big $ tools above.

Thats the thing I haven't overcome to get into fully diverse no-till strategy. I think there are alot of folks in that data set. I've checked with the NCRS office for renting each of the above... no joy.
 
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at1010

*Supporting Member*
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Albert, like in my case, which is even less than Jesse's i.e., no tractor, no drill and no crimper and roughly 11 acres of plots, what would be your recommendation(s) ... well lol, besides buy a tractor, crimper and drill, to best realize your No-till way to yearly sow and terminate the plot crop? Maybe a recommendation on the better or best of your blends that work without the aid of the big $ tools above.

Thats the thing I haven't overcome to get into fully diverse no-till strategy. I think there are alot of folks in that data set. I've checked with the NCRS office for renting each of the above... no joy.
Atv
Sprayer
Harrow drag or packer (used or made)
Pull mower or not

if you have an atv
Grow a robust fall crop
Seed into it in spring
Spray it
Ride/drag/roll (depending on what you have) to mat dow the fall crop.

if you don’t want to spray
Seed
Drag with rough side of harrow
Flip harrow over - drag flat side to flatten
Pray for rain

if those don’t work
Seed
Mow

As you do this you’ll learn your deer density, soil fertility, seeding rates and needs for increases/decreases based on predation - etc.

Lastly pray for rain. Good thatch will help hold moisture but we still need rain.

hope this helps!
 

Stressless

Active Member
2,446
90
Keene, OH
Thx for the info above, much appreciated.

1" of rain plus some more 🤞 in the next week's forecast, the farm has seen .24" of moisture on the dirt since 14 May... extraordinarily dry but doing okay, always room for improvement.

The strip in front is switchgrass and in dire need of mowing. The crabapples on the side are browning up ... we'll see.

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at1010

*Supporting Member*
5,266
159
Much of what I do for deer - translate into what I like to do for family. These tomatoes are planted in 18 cec soil and 2% OM.

First full year with this garden and the soil needs work.

I refused to import manure or compost. I am just using cover crops and natural foliar see how well I can let biology grow these tomatoes. So far - I am very happy!! About 70 total plants in this spot.
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Definitely an odd year so far with having it this dry so early. In a normal year I would be down right about now, trying to get all my plots mowed and allow them to grow into late July before spraying and planting. This early drought got me to thinking I might be doing more harm than good by mowing a month or so before I plan to plant.

This year my plan for (most of) my plots is to not mow prior to spraying. My plan is to kill it all, plant (brassicas and clover) and then drive over it all spreading the lime and fertilizer to cultipack it all in. That way there will be dying vegetation all over the new seed to provide that moisture and cover to also avoid early browsing. Some of my most successful plots were done this way in the past. At some point I tried to re-invent the wheel by mowing early and planting in 6-8 inches of stubble, thinking that was a better method. Last year we had a drought on the farm in August/Sept that really stunted those fields that were mowed early. The couple places I did not get to mow actually did very well and out produced the others again.

All of my plots the last several years I put down clover with the brassicas. The clover usually does well in the early spring and summer and I have always thought of it as being a summer food source to be replaced with the brassicas. Last year I recall mowing early and then spraying down two different plots that looked great with clover and I wondered then if I was making a mistake. They both looked pretty good when we returned a month or so later to spray, perhaps just mowing them again would have helped them take off even better? Would they have been a better food source than the brassicas that barely grew in there due to the drought? Those are the questions I have been asking myself since last summer. Jesse's post on his clover success with mowing really has made me think I need to try it. With that, this year my plan is to get to each of these plots and inspect them for clover. IF they look to have a lot of clover but just weedy I think I will just mow them and see what happens.
 

at1010

*Supporting Member*
5,266
159
Definitely an odd year so far with having it this dry so early. In a normal year I would be down right about now, trying to get all my plots mowed and allow them to grow into late July before spraying and planting. This early drought got me to thinking I might be doing more harm than good by mowing a month or so before I plan to plant.

This year my plan for (most of) my plots is to not mow prior to spraying. My plan is to kill it all, plant (brassicas and clover) and then drive over it all spreading the lime and fertilizer to cultipack it all in. That way there will be dying vegetation all over the new seed to provide that moisture and cover to also avoid early browsing. Some of my most successful plots were done this way in the past. At some point I tried to re-invent the wheel by mowing early and planting in 6-8 inches of stubble, thinking that was a better method. Last year we had a drought on the farm in August/Sept that really stunted those fields that were mowed early. The couple places I did not get to mow actually did very well and out produced the others again.

All of my plots the last several years I put down clover with the brassicas. The clover usually does well in the early spring and summer and I have always thought of it as being a summer food source to be replaced with the brassicas. Last year I recall mowing early and then spraying down two different plots that looked great with clover and I wondered then if I was making a mistake. They both looked pretty good when we returned a month or so later to spray, perhaps just mowing them again would have helped them take off even better? Would they have been a better food source than the brassicas that barely grew in there due to the drought? Those are the questions I have been asking myself since last summer. Jesse's post on his clover success with mowing really has made me think I need to try it. With that, this year my plan is to get to each of these plots and inspect them for clover. IF they look to have a lot of clover but just weedy I think I will just mow them and see what happens.
If the goal is to establish clover mono cultures - get ya some clover and rye grain or oats. You can add brassicas as well.

seed them into those stands. The oats/rye act as a nurse crop.

Rye is inherently allelopathic which helps to suppress weeds for the next year from germinating.
 
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at1010

*Supporting Member*
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Importance of exclusion fence and moisture.

We always try to maximize our moisture retention through various processes - no till, reduced till, etc.

However, we still need moisture to grow good crops. Water is natures solvent and it allows both aerobic bacteria and nutrients to be plant available within the soil profile.

All of that said - exclusion fences are critical. Trail cameras tell a small portion of the story and often can miss grazing deer in a plot (depending on size and location of camera).

Both these plots are coming on great since our recent rains, and the wildlife is immediately taking advantage of the fresh growth. Because I have exclusion fences up - I’ll have a very clear understanding of what was drought suppressed vs. deer consumed.

Get outside and enjoy the outdoors!!


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at1010

*Supporting Member*
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Really excited to be offering (at no additional cost to grower) seed armor+innoculant.

We wanted to offer a broad spectrum biological and humic based seed coating that is all natural, and helps with germination to root establishment.

We have also increased our brassicas (solid combo of forage and tuber producers) this year and added chicory to make the mix even better!!

checkout all the details below!

 

at1010

*Supporting Member*
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Wow! Amazing what can happen in 6 days - look at that growth!!

Cell cameras have enabled me to make far better plant growth observations in real time than I ever could have in the past.

Now, it doesn’t beat being in the field but it sure helps to gather data on plant growth. I like to compare this (observationally) across multiple fields/cameras.

Just using this technique I can get an idea on soil fertility variances, soil type variances, plot size/browse issue, etc. example - if two plots on same day are showing two different drastically different growth patterns, I know I can go back my soil tests and possibly consider pulling tissue samples as well. Test test test!

Just another tool in the box and maybe a new way you can think about using cell cameras!
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at1010

*Supporting Member*
5,266
159
Took a shovel and studied some soil this past Friday.

This field is inherently dry and is a lighter soil on the farm (8 cec) and this year I used @tainiobiologicals spectrum+myco to further help drive the biology with the Nitorboost mix. Observationally, I am very happy with the results.

Upon examining - I spoke to agronomists, soil scientists and a mycologist - it seems we all were homogeneous in our observations.

1. You can see mycelium forming in the roots hairs - good sign of fungi and plant relationship
2. You can see other fungi strains that appear to be aiding in the sub soil function - exact species was not identified. However, we are happy to see the fungal presence and likely this is helping us to break down higher C:N crops faster.
3. The rhizosheath formations (root hairs being covered with soil) is phenomenal- aiding in biological soil aggregation as well as biological soil to plant function or sign thereof.

Nothing happens over night, but when we stick with the process -we can see amazing positive changes occur in our fields.


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at1010

*Supporting Member*
5,266
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Here is a small NitroBoost plot. Although the plot has received a ton of browse, it is still growing and attracting deer every night. There is some weed pressure but overall the plot has done a fantastic job of feeding deer and soil all Spring and Summer.

This little plot will be rocking once planted in carbon load come fall!!
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at1010

*Supporting Member*
5,266
159
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Carbon Load is in stock and shipping now!!

We have been getting some questions on the inoculant and the @tainiobiologicals products.

1. First off we are now adding a custom inoculant to each order that has a humic based and is a broad spectrum biological inoculant for N fixation and uptake across all cover crops in our mix. This is at no cost to the consumer. However, I’d your not a carbon load customer - you can buy this from us to use on any and all seed types to maximize germination and nutrient uptake.

2. We also offer our Tainio products - the spectrum+myco is a great addition to any seed coat and acts as an insurance policy to ensure we are maximizing our fungi and good bacteria in the soil.

3. The micro 5000 is another great product that can be used as a seed coat or sprayed on as a foliar. When sprayed on the micro 5000 works to stimulate the endophytes on the plants surface and help communicate micro nutrient solubility in the soil profile. This alone can be a great stress mitigation tool. This product works off the rhizophagey cycle via Dr. James White.

None of these are silver bullets but all of them are solid insurance policies for helping our plants get off to a good start, establish healthy roots, and communications within the soil profile. These can all be used with any product on the market but we prefer them with our diverse fall blend - Carbon Load!!

Check is out at vitalizeseed.com