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62 Nova

hickslawns

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Trunk looks nice Phil. Get some of those rattle cans of trunk paint and freshen that baby up! That's easy, cheap work that goes a long way in appearance.

I am pulling the mat out of it. The only place I see the slightest hint of rust is where the mat is rubbing.
 

hickslawns

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Brought the car in the shop during our slow winter. Installed power disk brake kit on the front. I ordered through Church Boys Racing in Akron. Chuck Church has been very helpful. Unfortunately, the manufacturer of this brake kit has been terrible. The manufacturer is The Right Stuff. They initially sent the wrong bracket kit. Then we realized it was actually the entirely wrong brake booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve. Once I had these parts installed I realized they should have also sent different brake lines to match the different proportioning valve. The brake line kit was also wrong. After nearly a week of no reply, I made the decision to straighten the bends in the pre-bent lines and bend them to work properly. Finally I had a chance to test drive it. It sounded horrible. The noises of metal on metal were horrendous. That was last night. Tonight I was calmed down so I tore it apart. Again. What I found was nothing dragging, rubbing, restricting movement, or otherwise interfering. Yet I have grooves in brand new rotors after a 5-10 mile test drive. The pads and rotors are wearing in a very odd way. Never seen anything like this. Only explanation I can think is they sent the wrong calipers, pads, and hardware but it somehow bolted up and moved freely? Sure seems like a long shot.

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"J"

Git Off My Lawn
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Almost looks like a high spot on the rotor ?


Try putting a straight edge across the rotor to see if it's true.....
 

hickslawns

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Almost looks like a high spot on the rotor ?


Try putting a straight edge across the rotor to see if it's true.....

Could be. I was so frustrated I failed to process it fully. Both rotors? Same spot? Possibly an issue with the mold, machine, or whatever process they use to machine them. Sounds like the 12yr old Chinese kid making them needs someone watching over him/her for better quality control. lmao
 

"J"

Git Off My Lawn
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Could be. I was so frustrated I failed to process it fully. Both rotors? Same spot? Possibly an issue with the mold, machine, or whatever process they use to machine them. Sounds like the 12yr old Chinese kid making them needs someone watching over him/her for better quality control. lmao

It almost has to be Phil, no wear other then the middle almost has to be a high spot on the rotor or a not trued pad? Something is out of tolerance and my money would say rotor, easy check though.... If the rotor checks out ok, fasten some med course sandpaper on a wood block and run the brake pad on it to check to see if it's true also....


 

hickslawns

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I posted this issue on Steve's Nova Site as well. Naturally that is a better fit for the question but you guys are sharp fellas too. Figured a handful would find it interesting.

Caliper bolts are too long. Another member at Steve's Nova Site had the same issue..it was very difficult to see this even when I was looking for it. It was harder to capture on photo. Deleted 15 pics but finally got a couple decent ones showing it.

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hickslawns

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Over a year since I've updated this one. We drove the Nova last Easter to my aunt and uncle's house. When we were leaving it wouldn't start. The boys gave me a push, I bump started it and we drove it home. Parked it. Shortly after my father became ill. We lost him in July. The Nova was a bottom of the list priority. By the time I could mentally do much, I had so much work to catch up on the Nova sat.

Now I am sorting thru the starting issues. No crank. Nothing. Freshened up the battery. Realized the charger I had been using was not working. So at this point it isn't as much a starting issue. What I have learned is there is a MAJOR drain. To top it off, I also believe the alternator is failing to charge. Charges at an idle. Does not charge at higher RPM. With a fully charged battery, multimeter reading the battery, you can watch the volts drop. Before I change the alternator I need to determine where the draw is coming from. This still has the old (possibly original) voltage regulator mounted on the inner fender. There is a powered lead from the battery to the voltage regulator. The only other thing I have changed on this since we have owned it is the starter and ignition switch. Ignition switch literally fell apart. Probably the original. Now I am questioning whether I ever truly needed to change the starter or if the replacement ignition switch was bad. Or. . .maybe when my helper put the wires back on ignition switch they didn't hook the wires properly. Long story short. . .I need to follow a lot of wires with the multimeter. I need to study up on original wiring of 62 Chevy II's in regards to ignition switch, voltage regulators, and then determine what has been changed in the wiring over the last 56 years. I'm sure there is plenty.
 

motorbreaker

*Supporting Member I*
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North of Toledo
Wiring can be a pain. Id have the alt. checked out if its bad id get a new one with a build in voltage regulator. I wish I could help you more with this issue but I'm not good at wiring. I always have my buddy fix mine. Good luck with it Phil.
 
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Buckmaster

Senior Member
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Sounds like a challenging pain Phil. It's supposed to be Fun!
When you're done messing it up....you could always sell it to your friend Ben. :)
 

hickslawns

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Try pulling fuses of things that are powered with the key off. Check each to see if the power is still draining.

I'd like to check with multimeter both with key on and key off. Not much room though. My hands are too big. Tough to even pull the fuses.

This is not confirmed without testing, but. . . As fast as the drain is I am ruling out lights and such. This should narrow the search down. I mean a dome light or even hazard lights shouldn't pull a battery down this quickly.
 

giles

Cull buck specialist
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Did you check the battery with it disconnected from the car? Watching the volts go down tells me it isn’t the car. If it was, it’d be melting wires with that kind of drain. Or at least something would be hot enough to smell.
 

hickslawns

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Any updates on the drain?
Been working on every project but this one. No updates. Finishing rebuilding a dump trailer now. Hopefully I catch a day or so before it gets busy with spring to dive into it.
 

hickslawns

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Update: I did end up replacing the battery. Well, NAPA did. It was under warranty still. Doesn't matter. Still drains. I just pull battery cables when I stop. Pain in the butt. Works until I have time to find it.

Sad. Drove it tonight. Hadn't driven this year outside of bringing it home from storage. Took the Mrs to dinner. Were going for a country cruise and heard weird noise. Pulled into parking lot by reservoir. Noise went away. Lifted hood. It had spit serpentine belt off. Not broken. Hmm.. . .something caused it. Inspected. Found loose pulley on alternator. Called a buddy. He brought a few tools and we limped it home. Had to stop a few times to tighten pulley nut. We made it though. Frustrating but at least you can actually work on a 62 on the side of the road. Modern vehicles would have had a tow bill to the shop to get plugged into a computer. Easy fix. I'll get it and eventually take J's advice on chasing the battery drain. I have plans for this car. Just need to enjoy it for now and make our upgrades as we can afford them. Eventually it will be a fully restomod restoration we hope to travel the country in when we retire. Until then? It's a fun driver when it isn't giving me fits.
 

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"J"

Git Off My Lawn
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One thing too check on that drain is the binding wire from the back of the block too the firewall. If it broken or the connections are corroded it’ll cause some like issues. Did you ever change that alternator yet? I remember it was dropping off above idle, correct?