I feed the whole panel via an L14-30, manual lockout in the box which allows for flexibility on which circuits to run. Leaves the other plugs on the gunny free for extension cords. Good luck Joe, hoping ya don't need it any time soon.
Another Damn Generator Question.
- Thread starter Jackalope
- Start date
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Makes sense and nice setup bud. Yours on the parallel is L14-30 120V Right? Mine is 20A but 240v.
Yes, the 2 small ones are 120, the other is either 120/240.
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Everybody has to move down. The whole home surge protector breaker will go top right. In my reading, you want them as close to the main as possible and short wires. Shortest would be the top right. Unfortunately, I can't do anything about the wire length as I have to drill below the backplane.
The genny breaker will go top left to accommodate the transfer lockout. The only breaker that will be on in this picture will be the generator and the top left as that feeds the main indoor subpanel. The rest all go to AC condensing units, a subpanel in the attic for air handlers, and the detached shop. Then that one on the bottom left that goes to underground conduit which I have no clue where it goes. Probably the old well pump that is long gone after they cut over to co-op utility.
It'll be a good little project and with the main thrown a good time to inspect breakers and retighten all the lugs 16 years post-install.
Everybody has to move down. The whole home surge protector breaker will go top right. In my reading, you want them as close to the main as possible and short wires. Shortest would be the top right. Unfortunately, I can't do anything about the wire length as I have to drill below the backplane.
The genny breaker will go top left to accommodate the transfer lockout. The only breaker that will be on in this picture will be the generator and the top left as that feeds the main indoor subpanel. The rest all go to AC condensing units, a subpanel in the attic for air handlers, and the detached shop. Then that one on the bottom left that goes to underground conduit which I have no clue where it goes. Probably the old well pump that is long gone after they cut over to co-op utility.
It'll be a good little project and with the main thrown a good time to inspect breakers and retighten all the lugs 16 years post-install.
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Got the box-mounted wires ran and liquid-tight done. Still need to cut the main to move the breakers down and wire it in. My OCD is killing me because I'd like that to be a perfect arc but even though it says liquid tight I didn't want water to run to either end so I put a low point in it.
Big_Holla
Senior Member
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Success. Thanks for the help guys. Got it all wired in and did a gen test. The L4-20 208v to the breaker and it ran the kitchen refrigerator, all of the downstairs lights, and the microwave at the same time. I used the dongle to the L5-30 and ran the freezer, garage fridge/freezer, and window ac on it. As a test I turned everything on and opened all the refrigerator / freezer doors until they kicked on which represents worst case of everything I want being on at one time. Didn't skip a beat. Here's to hoping I did all that for nothing and never need it. I have 2 20a and 2 30a generator push button breakers as spares, 2 extra spark plugs, and 2 extra inline fuel filters. Short of it shitting the bed I should be able to repair anything without needing a parts store. I rebuilt the carb last year so that's about the best I can be prepared without buying a whole extra Genny.
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This poor lizard had a bad day at some point. 
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For sure. Mine is 14 amps. I'm feeding 208 so 7 amp draw on a 20a circuit. 4.2a for the refrigerator. 24 can lights .9a. So total I'm pulling a little over 12 amps with everything on. Not including crap plugged but not on like TV, bug zapper, 8 port charging station. As long as she doesn't kick the air fryer on at the same time as the microwave we should be good.
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