No Till Food Plots - So Easy

[at1010]

In my opinions - one of the hardest things to do as a land manager is accurately assess your deer population, especially in large timbered areas. I hear so often “we don’t have that many deer”.

Just the fact that you cannot see a long ways in large timber tracts, often limits the number of “sighted” deer on the landscape. However, this does not mean they are not there - we also don’t want to just assume the deer densities are adequate without some type of quantifiable attempt.

I know we have a high dpsm on the farm. However- we don’t often get pictures of 7+ deer at a time.

We do get a lot of pictures simultaneously and we measure browse both on woody regen and food plots.

When you combine all of this together - it adds up for some really good assessment of the local deer density and allows us to put togyuer a plan for cutting timber, planting food plots and harvesting does.

Make/plant more food, shoot more does or often times - do both!

 

[at1010]

New this year is bulk pricing discounts. This is great for those who want to add more acres of NItroBoost or Carbon Load.

Also this is a great option for those who don’t have a dealer near them and want to buy in bulk with their family, friends, neighbors, etc.


We are offering this on The Vitalize Fish Fertilizer+humics as well!

 

[at1010]

Soil sampling

I love to soil sample and keeping it simple will give you great, consistent result!

Trying to recommend soil amendments without consistent soil sampling procedures - leads to us chasing our tails.

1. Use @wardlabs or other reputable labels - so you get all the needed metrics (we sell Ward’s on our website).
2. Use a soil probe - as you see I mark mine at 6inch depth.
3. Take same time of year
4. Notice @onxhunt maps on my phone - I mark my gps coordinates so I know that I am accurate in my sampling.

This leads to better quality, and consistency in the samples. Which will lead to better gardens, food plots, farms, etc.

 

[jagermeister]

Soil sampling

I love to soil sample and keeping it simple will give you great, consistent result!

Trying to recommend soil amendments without consistent soil sampling procedures - leads to us chasing our tails.

1. Use @wardlabs or other reputable labels - so you get all the needed metrics (we sell Ward’s on our website).
2. Use a soil probe - as you see I mark mine at 6inch depth.
3. Take same time of year
4. Notice @onxhunt maps on my phone - I mark my gps coordinates so I know that I am accurate in my sampling.

This leads to better quality, and consistency in the samples. Which will lead to better gardens, food plots, farms, etc.

View attachment 205952

Al, I see on your website you offer two options… Soil Test and Soil Test with Soil Assessment. Can you give us the details on what’s included in the Soil Assessment?

 

[at1010]

Al, I see on your website you offer two options… Soil Test and Soil Test with Soil Assessment. Can you give us the details on what’s included in the Soil Assessment?

So SHA is bad ass but it’s full encompsssing of physical, biological and chemical.

so you get all the standard readings, but also the water soluble nutrient readings, the co2 respiration readings, etc.


I love that test but for most foodplot and gardeners it’s not needed.

if you are trying to measure changes over time - than I’d say it is absolutely a great tool, especially if you couple it with a PFLA sampling. I don’t offer that as I just think it’s a bit niche - but I’d be happy to help anyone who wants to go down that route.

 

[at1010]

 

[at1010]

Planting Green!! Vitalize Seed!

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I got the itch!

 

[at1010]

Here is your reminder to put up exclusion fences - and put them up early.

I am so excited to drill in Nitroboost and this particular field turned out fantastic last year (despite the heavy browse). However, how much better could/would it be without browse impacting it?

Always be observing, learning, adjusting!

Have a wonderful weekend all!

 

[at1010]

I absolutely love adding clover to logging roads!

To keep it simple - I’ve done the “clover 1-2. System”

1. First planting (spring or fall) - I’ll plant our clover/chic/oats. This allows the clovers to get established with a nurse crop of oats that’s balanced in ratio.
2. That Fall or Spring (depending on when I did step 1) - I over-seed or frost seed our Premium Clover+ into the area where I planted the Clover/Chic/Oats.

I’ve not used any herbicide in the above

Picture and it is clean!!! These are spots that are established on non worked logging roads, but you can also plant using a more traditional planting method or even a no till drill.

Thanks for checking us out! Have a great weekend.

 

[at1010]

The 1-2 Clover Bundle is available on the website!
15lbs of clover!!
13.5lbs of oats
Free Shipping for under $150!!!

 

[at1010]

Are you spreading lime this winter/Spring?

One thing I like to do is add our Vitalize Micros - this has humics, Ca, S, and all major micro nutrients (minus iron due to that being high in most soils).

We recommend 22.5 to 45lbs per acre per year but always best to consult a soil test from year to year. More is not better - especially with micros.

Another thing to keep in mind is the dampness of a field. If your spreading lime and the ground is soft, you increase the likelihood of creating compaction. Consider waiting for a cold spell, dry spell or do it first thing in morning when grounds still frozen.

Most importantly - get outside and enjoy the outdoors! Be safe!

 

[at1010]

Vitalize Seed - Clover talk

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[at1010]

Did you know that every bag of Nitroboost and Carbon Load come with our broad spectrum inoculant and humics?!

This is our Seed Armr+ and is used to insure the plants success in N fixation, germination, nutrient uptake, establishment and more.

We provide this because we believe our customers deserve to give their plants the best possible chance at success! That success starts with great quality seed and Seed Armr+!

If you’re not a Nitroboost or Carbon Load customer but still want a broad spectrum inoculant for your beans, peas, etc. checkout our website for more info.

 

[at1010]

One of the best tools (imo)for seeing how your soils are improving…a shovel! After a few years of our system and these soils have drastically improved. You can see this in the color, aggregation, and of course the earth worms!

These are from my garden and a food-plot. We can use the Vitalize System and fertility offerings to not only benefit food plots and wildlife but also our own garden/orchards/etc. for our consumption!!

Get outside - use a shovel and see how you can positively impact your soil, in short order!

 

[at1010]

Clover Food Plots part 2

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[at1010]

Before and after - Nitroboost coated with Seed Armr+ and Seed Feed and Spectrum+Myco.

We use these three powders every time we plant to give our young seedlings the best possibility at success.

Even with a history drought last year in SE Ohio - between using no-till methods, our 1-2 system and sound soil health practices - we saw absolutely stellar food plots

Check us out at Vitalize Seed!

(Note Seed Armr+ comes with Nitroboost and Carbon Load orders). The Seed Feed and Spectrum+Myco are a small investment to coat and cover the seeds with fertility to feed them from the start as well as good bacteria/fungi to aid in strong symbiotic establishment below ground - further helping in plants nutrient uptake from the jump.

 

[at1010]

I get a lot of questions on our Fish Fert+Humics.

Many are surprised to learn that you only need 2-4oz per gallon of water. Assuming 10-12 gallons of water covers an acre, we can cover 2-3 acres with one jug!

The reason is that this is a jug of Fish Fert+Humics in a concentrate!

Another thing I love about this product is that you get (in organic forms) NPK, micros, and humic. These act as food sources for both plants and microbes.

Our Fish Fert+Humics will have amino acids and proteins that can be nutrient sources for microbes and plants.

Our goal with this product is to prime the biological soil pump to further drive nutrient cycling! You can spray at pre-plant, at planting, post-plant, etc.

 

[5Cent]

Al, do your recommend NB or 1 of the 3 clover options for the larger section below? I'm just looking to supplement the current grass for future soil health and grazing mass once its fenced in (1-3yrs). This year would be the spring overseed/broadcast planting that I would lean towards more deer use, with less interest likely over the next few years. Large is 1.5acres, small is .5.

My head says the Premium Clover+ for ease of return years, but some height/diversity/deer use with the NB makes me pause. I'd like to mow it at the end of the season for sure, but it has to be done with the zero turn, lol. Thoughts?

 

[at1010]

Al, do your recommend NB or 1 of the 3 clover options for the larger section below? I'm just looking to supplement the current grass for future soil health and grazing mass once its fenced in (1-3yrs). This year would be the spring overseed/broadcast planting that I would lean towards more deer use, with less interest likely over the next few years. Large is 1.5acres, small is .5.

My head says the Premium Clover+ for ease of return years, but some height/diversity/deer use with the NB makes me pause. I'd like to mow it at the end of the season for sure, but it has to be done with the zero turn, lol. Thoughts?View attachment 206217

So if the goal is to increase soil quality - you absolutely want to go with the NB.

clover is wonderful but it perennial and once established - it’s there for awhile.

If you are not going to till that spot - would you spray it off? Is it primarily fescue now?

I’d seed at a bit heavier rate of NB. Getting the variety in root structure and mass is what will make a drastically positive impact on the soils.

 

[5Cent]

So if the goal is to increase soil quality - you absolutely want to go with the NB.

clover is wonderful but it perennial and once established - it’s there for awhile.

If you are not going to till that spot - would you spray it off? Is it primarily fescue now?

I’d seed at a bit heavier rate of NB. Getting the variety in root structure and mass is what will make a drastically positive impact on the soils.

Tall fescue, some random clover, got mowed 2x a year before it seeds the last 3 years. Sitting around 6"-6.5" height right now. No till, no spray, broadcasting only as I am wanting the grass for 2-4head of cows, so bloat is a concern but it could be a few years off.