Super duty rocker panels and cab corners
- Thread starter hickslawns
- Start date
Expanding foam for rigidity first doncha kno!
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First rust inhibitor paint in the closest color home dipshit had. Then foam. Then more paint. She's good for another 20 years boys!
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Like fucking rust inhibitor is helping
That shits magic. Didn't ya see that rust disappear right before your eyes. She gone bub! I might get real fancy self tapper a bent speed limit sign to them rockers. He'll I bet a road name sigh would fit perfect.
Before I went "all in" the plan was white aluminum sheet from the race trucks. I was going to bend it and rivet into place. Truthfully, that would have lasted a long time. Once I committed to keeping the truck, I changed the plan.
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- 274
Rockers and cab corners on the truck I did 4 years ago are okay. Everything I sanded down and put POR15 on is starting to rust. Extremely disappointed with the POR15.
On to the current project. Another Superduty plow truck. Should have been done last year or the year before but here we are. Lol
It's been another project. Thought I could button it up quickly yesterday when I realized one of my guys cut out an additional 2-3" of good metal which was NOT a repair panel we bought. So I got to dig that out of the scrap pile and weld it back in.
Both sides done. Finished the outer rocker panel on passenger side tonight. Applied first cost of Bondo on the seams. I've been hitting it with Ace Hardware rust stopper primer where I can. If welding needed to take place I just taped over the areas to be welded so I didn't need to grind paint twice. Honestly thinking several costs of primer and maybe just rattle can several costs over top of that. Also Ace Hardware rust stopper paint. It's a 2004 F250. Aluminum flatbed. Not a show truck. I do have some of the Raptorliner bedliner paint in red I may try. Problem is these doors are going to need it before long. Also have a twin to this truck that needs on cab corner and outer rocker along with a door skin. Might just rattle can the truck I'm working on and paint them both once when both are done. Won't take much effort to scuff the rattle can paint for Raptor Liner at a later date.
Bondo started to set up. Definitely will need a quick sand and second application. This looks rough but far from a completed project.
On to the current project. Another Superduty plow truck. Should have been done last year or the year before but here we are. Lol
It's been another project. Thought I could button it up quickly yesterday when I realized one of my guys cut out an additional 2-3" of good metal which was NOT a repair panel we bought. So I got to dig that out of the scrap pile and weld it back in.
Both sides done. Finished the outer rocker panel on passenger side tonight. Applied first cost of Bondo on the seams. I've been hitting it with Ace Hardware rust stopper primer where I can. If welding needed to take place I just taped over the areas to be welded so I didn't need to grind paint twice. Honestly thinking several costs of primer and maybe just rattle can several costs over top of that. Also Ace Hardware rust stopper paint. It's a 2004 F250. Aluminum flatbed. Not a show truck. I do have some of the Raptorliner bedliner paint in red I may try. Problem is these doors are going to need it before long. Also have a twin to this truck that needs on cab corner and outer rocker along with a door skin. Might just rattle can the truck I'm working on and paint them both once when both are done. Won't take much effort to scuff the rattle can paint for Raptor Liner at a later date.
Bondo started to set up. Definitely will need a quick sand and second application. This looks rough but far from a completed project.
The bucket is good for 39 seconds. Then I end up kneeling, squatting, or laying in cardboard or a creeper. I have tried these more agile seats and the same thing happens. Need a building with a lift. That might help.
Two coats of primer on the bottom of the cab. Two coats of paint. 2-3 coats of primer on the new cab corners and rockers panels. 2 coats of paint. Probably let her dry over night and do one or two more. I've got to say I am impressed with how close Ace Rust Stop in International Tractor red blends with 21 year faded F250 red. Might look different in the sunlight, but under the LED shop lights it is "close enough." I didn't even tape anything off. Just did the rattle can blend. Is it perfect? Nope. Is it good enough for a work truck? Yep.
Drivers side looks similar to passenger side. There is a weird glare 4-6" below the body line making it look like a hack job. While technically it is a rattle can hack job. . . I've seen much worse on car lots plenty of times.
Drivers side looks similar to passenger side. There is a weird glare 4-6" below the body line making it look like a hack job. While technically it is a rattle can hack job. . . I've seen much worse on car lots plenty of times.
Throw some mud on it and call it a day!
Definitely looks good, plenty good for its intended purpose….
Pretty sure he was saying to go work it and get it dirty, lol.
Good job
I do agree. For a final blend of paints, some actual mud from the puddles or whatever would help. I got it. My reply didn't hit right I guess. Lol
