Even better if you shoot two, one fletched and one bareshaft.
I agree with Brock. Get your arrow flying STRAIGHT first, before bothering with paper tuning or rest adjustment... Unless your rest is obviously WAY out of whack. You should be able to eyeball the position of the rest in comparison to the string travel path... close one eye, hold bow so that you're eye is centered with the string, and look "through" to your rest. If the rest is close to where it should be, in line in the center of the string, proceed to bareshaft tuning as Brock suggested first.Not the fletching. There could be fletching contact too, but that bareshaft shows you have another issue to fix. You would be ahead of the game to skip the paper until you have a bareshaft flying straight IMO. Mark where you rest is currently, move the rest to see if you can get the shaft flying straight. If not, return to original position and go to a lighter shaft or increase weight on the front of your arrow.
Complete outside view is that the problem has been there the entire time. Just overlooked. As the process is slowed down and Stress is looking into it more, he is finding more.I'll need some help understanding this from Brock or JB, but how did decreasing draw weight highlight a weak spine? Shouldn't that have been even more obvious at the original draw weight?
Agreed, I was definitely thinking it was resulting in an over-spined situation.I'll need some help understanding this from Brock or JB, but how did decreasing draw weight highlight a weak spine? Shouldn't that have been even more obvious at the original draw weight?