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Who's shooting? Tuning? Tinkering?

Milo

Tatonka guide.
8,145
132
Throwing rocks? Interesting perspective… I will help anyway … the line on the riser shelf means nothing… just a starting point possibly… and is sign that bow shops are so stupid they have to have the manufacturer tell them where to start… check your rest timing as well cause QAD break all the time.. I have replaced 4-5 of them from improper installation breaking them. In tuning you have to determine if what happened to the arrow is an action or reaction to something happening on the bow. A failing test can give you a stiff indication on paper tuning because as the shafts flexes, to rides on one side of the prongs and causes a reaction false positive.
 

Stressless

Active Member
1,426
60
Keene, OH
Rgr that @jagermeister @Milo @bowhunter1023 et. Al.

Trying to get smarter and understand, I've tried to mine the Bowsite forum as well on tips and instructions but feels like it goes from arithmetic to calculus skipping algebra... somewhat frustrating.

Pls chalk the rocks up
as me being a grumpy bastard that knows he should be able to figure it out and didnt/can't. I am also conscious of other folks time so I had hoped to be fixed and shooting again instead of dragging this on/out and feeling like I wasted your guys time. The advice is great - my old bowshop, now closed, had a really great dude, Mark - he was gold. We'll see how this new one turns out.

My neighbor Cliff is a fine Bowyer and past 2x state champ competition shooter.

Talked to him last night as well and he's 100% with the big brains in here- WTF? Should have been a strait fwd tuning.

K - gonna wait on the new string setup and be back with any updates in a couple weeks.

Much appreciated.

-just copied Joe's steps below. Thank you sir.
 
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Jackalope

Dignitary Member
Staff member
36,591
235
You really have two options.

1. Purchase the needed equipment and learn to tune your bow for target shooting.
2. Fork money over to a bow shop and learn to live with a hunting bow that will kill deer at 40 yards but that's about it.

You likely don't want the bill that a bow shop would have to charge you for the hours it takes to correctly tune bow for target shooting. So I'll share the same information shared with me many years ago by Milo and jagermeister. Learn to do it yourself, or learn to live with it. Both of those guys and Brock were tremendously helpful when I started down the path of learning.

If you want to do it yourself here is how I would start.

1. Make sure your limb tension is correct. Crank it all the way down then crank it out evenly on both limbs until the desired weight it reached.
2. Put it on a draw bar and check idler wheel lean at full draw. correct it by twisting and untwisting yoke cables.
3. Even though it's a single cam bow make sure it's not over or under rotated. The cam should be marked for proper string location where it leaves the cam at full draw.
4. Check ATA length. If it's off, remove or add twists to BOTH yokes equally on the idler wheel.
5. Set your nock point and center shot. Some say 1/8 high. I would go with center.
6. Make sure your arrow is appropriately spined for your rig.
7. Get a notepad and a pen. Record the result and steps taken for all future steps.
8. Shoot a bare shaft through paper 3 times and compare the results. If they aren't consistent the problem is the shooters form. Get consistent tears before moving on.
9. If the tear is left - adjust the idler wheel lean by adding a half twist to the right side. Tear right add twist to the left side.
10. Adjust up and down tears by moving the rest up or down. If you felt it move you probably moved it too far. I like to barely loosen it and bump it with something. If you see a huge tear and correcting it with the rest would move you too far from center adjust the nock point.
10. Repeat as necessary until it's shooting bare shaft bullet holes through paper.
11. Next set your 20 pin at 20 yards with a bare shaft by moving the sight housing.
12. Next broadhead tune the bow. Shoot a fletched broadhead then the same bare shaft. If they don't hit together make very small rest movements to bring them together. by "very small" I mean human hair micro.
13. Walkback the bow. Shoot the same fletched arrow, using the same pin, at the same spot at 20, 30 & 40 yards. They should all fall in a line up and down.
14. Set your other pins by moving them individually.