Tow rig/daily driver
- Thread starter giles
- Start date
Iowa_Buckeye
Smartest person here
Buckmaster
Senior Member
It appears my “land yacht” is headed to the neighbors house in exchange for his back 6 acres. That should position me well for the upcoming Cybertruck. Now I need a surveyor and an attorney to make it go smoothly.
Iowa_Buckeye
Smartest person here
No interest in spending $ on tires right now. Still work from home, she hasn't had a wash in 10 months and visits a construction site multiple times a day. Most importantly, she handles 14k lbs beautifully with the OEM setup. She's getting used and abused and loving every minute of it.
I actually thought about pulling out thefoor mat today to dump the sand, never did happen.
I actually thought about pulling out thefoor mat today to dump the sand, never did happen.
14,700miles, not even 1/2 life yet. Did the same with the '14 until they wore out at like 61k, you old fuckers just forgot that is all.
Lots more towing experience here that I'm likely to accumulate, so I'm leaning on you guys to advise me here.
The GVWR on the camper is 7,500# and dry weight is 6,140# dry.
I was at our local dealer earlier and they have a 2020 that I could get right (inside connect) and it appears towing capacity is 9,800 on that particular setup (4WD CrewMax SR5). It has the integrated trailer brake and class IV hitch. That seems like a good match to me. Curious what you guys would say. I'm not sure I really want a 3/4 ton or a diesel, so I'm hoping the Tundra would handle it.
The GVWR on the camper is 7,500# and dry weight is 6,140# dry.
I was at our local dealer earlier and they have a 2020 that I could get right (inside connect) and it appears towing capacity is 9,800 on that particular setup (4WD CrewMax SR5). It has the integrated trailer brake and class IV hitch. That seems like a good match to me. Curious what you guys would say. I'm not sure I really want a 3/4 ton or a diesel, so I'm hoping the Tundra would handle it.
It's not that number. Those are the numbers that OEMs fight over for marketing purpose and the only one the dealer cares about to make the sale.
Whats the gross on the truck? Fill it fuel, and the 4 of you, go get on scale. Subtract from gross to see what cargo or carrying capacity you have left. Then subtract weight of hitch receiver and tongue weight. Thats what you can have left to put in the truck to haul. Its not a legal number but I will tell you from experiemce that if you are close on cargo with a 1/2 ton, you must check your axles to ensure your not exceeding gross axle or the individual wheel capacity. Those 2 are legal numbers and will put you behind bars for many years if you cause an accident and someone is injured or killed. If you get stopped for a traffic violation, then only if they bust out the scales.
I am 97.265% sure your numbers will be fine, but you will dictate the final handling by how you load the trailer and/or truck bed. This is a combo you see often on the road but it wears out parts faster and with an incorrect WDH setup, a white knuckle, butt hole puckering experience.
This is where the 80/20 rule comes into play. Yes, most things will be able to exceed the numbers that are approved by OEM without issue, as they build in margin too. But, if you are at or over capcity for "x" amount of time, it wears out. This is the reliability testing portion that can't be recreated......time.
Leave the atv at home with the camper hooked unless just going to your uncles or somewhere like 15mins close. Even then I'd want a helper spring or bags installed.
Keep tongue weight 10-13% of total trailer weight, and even or nose down, never nose up. I will say it will come down to personal choice after you tow it a dozen times or a year or 2, for a few hours each way. Highway push/pull at 65-70 is a lot different then controlled accents and decent in the hills. Should be able to tweak the suspension setup to your liking too if not interested in a 3/4 ton.
Whats the gross on the truck? Fill it fuel, and the 4 of you, go get on scale. Subtract from gross to see what cargo or carrying capacity you have left. Then subtract weight of hitch receiver and tongue weight. Thats what you can have left to put in the truck to haul. Its not a legal number but I will tell you from experiemce that if you are close on cargo with a 1/2 ton, you must check your axles to ensure your not exceeding gross axle or the individual wheel capacity. Those 2 are legal numbers and will put you behind bars for many years if you cause an accident and someone is injured or killed. If you get stopped for a traffic violation, then only if they bust out the scales.
I am 97.265% sure your numbers will be fine, but you will dictate the final handling by how you load the trailer and/or truck bed. This is a combo you see often on the road but it wears out parts faster and with an incorrect WDH setup, a white knuckle, butt hole puckering experience.
This is where the 80/20 rule comes into play. Yes, most things will be able to exceed the numbers that are approved by OEM without issue, as they build in margin too. But, if you are at or over capcity for "x" amount of time, it wears out. This is the reliability testing portion that can't be recreated......time.
Leave the atv at home with the camper hooked unless just going to your uncles or somewhere like 15mins close. Even then I'd want a helper spring or bags installed.
Keep tongue weight 10-13% of total trailer weight, and even or nose down, never nose up. I will say it will come down to personal choice after you tow it a dozen times or a year or 2, for a few hours each way. Highway push/pull at 65-70 is a lot different then controlled accents and decent in the hills. Should be able to tweak the suspension setup to your liking too if not interested in a 3/4 ton.
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Short hand:
GVWR-full tank & family-hitch head-tongue weight = available cargo/bed capacity
Or
GVWR-WT-HH-TW=RCP
GRAWR < max allowed = no ticket or jail time
GVWR-full tank & family-hitch head-tongue weight = available cargo/bed capacity
Or
GVWR-WT-HH-TW=RCP
GRAWR < max allowed = no ticket or jail time
The first and easy one to meet is the towing. Then GCWR (gross combined weight rating), which is usually more than ok.
Then it always comes down to cargo capacity. Its not a legal number so people don't get hung up on it or take into consideration until it comes time to actually tow. At a close point, your remaining cargo capacity will intersect your trucks's GVWR.
Then it always comes down to cargo capacity. Its not a legal number so people don't get hung up on it or take into consideration until it comes time to actually tow. At a close point, your remaining cargo capacity will intersect your trucks's GVWR.
GVWR on truck = 7,200#
Base Curb Weight = 5,640#
Full Tank = 167#
Family of 4 = 450#
Leaves around 1K #s for the truck. My only intention on truck payload was generator, bikes, wood, and coolers, which could climb to 1K fairly quick I suppose.
Base Curb Weight = 5,640#
Full Tank = 167#
Family of 4 = 450#
Leaves around 1K #s for the truck. My only intention on truck payload was generator, bikes, wood, and coolers, which could climb to 1K fairly quick I suppose.