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Arrow flight question

RedCloud said:
My momma always told me I was special. lmao

I will leave it to the more edumacated fellers lol.

Weather it's over or under spined wouldn't it cause the arrow to jump around and not fly straight ? Too much flex or not enough flex ?

Was just something that came to mind.

Acoording to Easton the .340 is the right spine. I'm out of ideas lmao. Sorry for the side track.
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No problem...I know you know what you're talking about....most of the time!! haha!
 
bthompson1004 said:
I agree...strange indeed...I was only grouping good at 15 and 20 yards though...at 25 and 30 I was on the target but not grouping like I was at 15 and 20 yards...so I prbly needed a little tuning then...But the flatlines fly true and hit the mark with the 125gr AND 100gr. field points...also with my 100gr. 3blade RAGE practice head...the only problem is when I shot the 3 blade Muzzy 125 gr. practice broadhead...at least thats what I saw...
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Yea, I'd say your nock point is off, probably high like Milo said. A properly-tuned bow makes all the difference between shooting at 15 yds and shooting at 30 yds... well that, and shooter form. Field points will just about always give you the impression that your bow is shooting well... Fixed-blade broadheads will make the issues that normally go unnoticed much more noticeable.
 
JBrown said:
Yea, I'd say your nock point is off, probably high like Milo said. A properly-tuned bow makes all the difference between shooting at 15 yds and shooting at 30 yds... well that, and shooter form. Field points will just about always give you the impression that your bow is shooting well... Fixed-blade broadheads will make the issues that normally go unnoticed much more noticeable.
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Orrrrr....this might have something to do with it...look at the bottom blade compared to the other 2.

2011-10-11 20.36.52.jpg
 
JBrown said:
Muzzy... Bad to the Bone.... errrr, uh, target. lmao
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Thankfully it's only the practice blade...still need to get a new set of practice blades though...but at least I know what the problem likely is/was...I calculated the FOC last night...125grain broadhead with the lumenoks puts me at an FOC of 8%...I will recheck arrow flight once I locate some new practice blades.
 
spin like crap and are generally harder to get them aligned. out of a dozen heads i would say 25% of them will never spin true. heck i spent 20 minutes with the 3 heads i had huck use last year just to get them serviceable. i did fix up some phantoms with year and they were much better than the MX series or walmart packs.
 
Could be that the broadhead is a little heavy for that type of arrow because the flatlines by easton are made for speed and more target shooting. It may shoot okay with fieldpoints but with the blades on the broadheads its catching more wind than the fieldpoints. I dont know much about the twister vanes you shoot or how they group but i recommend blazer vanes by bohning caus they are a stiffer fletching and if you shoot a heavy broadhead you will most likely want to shoot a heavier arrow. if you want a carbon arrow i would recommend either easton axis or carbon express pile driver.
 
spin like crap and are generally harder to get them aligned. out of a dozen heads i would say 25% of them will never spin true. heck i spent 20 minutes with the 3 heads i had huck use last year just to get them serviceable. i did fix up some phantoms with year and they were much better than the MX series or walmart packs.
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I sense another lesson in "yea, I didn't tell you because it would have confused the crap out of you..."
 
Diablo54 said:
Could be that the broadhead is a little heavy for that type of arrow because the flatlines by easton are made for speed and more target shooting. It may shoot okay with fieldpoints but with the blades on the broadheads its catching more wind than the fieldpoints. I dont know much about the twister vanes you shoot or how they group but i recommend blazer vanes by bohning caus they are a stiffer fletching and if you shoot a heavy broadhead you will most likely want to shoot a heavier arrow. if you want a carbon arrow i would recommend either easton axis or carbon express pile driver.
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125gr tip with lumenok and twisters = FOC of 8%...I will check arrow flight again after I get new practice blades...I'm so curious, I might shoot the actual broadhead tonight...if it's not raining!

Calculating the FOC for 125gr tips with lumenoks and then with the microlite HIT nocks the arrows came with I came up with these results...

125gr tip w/Lumenok FOC = 8%
125gr tip w/Microlite FOC = 10%
100gr tip w/Lumenock FOC = 6%
100gr tip w/Microlite FOC = 8%
 
bthompson1004 said:
125gr tip with lumenok and twisters = FOC of 8%...I will check arrow flight again after I get new practice blades...I'm so curious, I might shoot the actual broadhead tonight...if it's not raining!

Calculating the FOC for 125gr tips with lumenoks and then with the microlite HIT nocks the arrows came with I came up with these results...

125gr tip w/Lumenok FOC = 8%
125gr tip w/Microlite FOC = 10%
100gr tip w/Lumenock FOC = 6%
100gr tip w/Microlite FOC = 8%
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8% seems a little low on FOC... I think somewhere around 12% or higher is what most guys aim for... But I don't think the FOC is what caused your poor flight. That bent blade definitely had some/all to do with it. If I were you, I'd just shoot the normal blades for a practice round. Or at least shoot a couple shots with the real deal AFTER practicing with the practice blades, just to make sure they do indeed fly the same. A new set of blades or sharpening them is a small price to pay for confidence in your setup. For me personally, not being 100% sure about something is a no-go for my hunting rig... and I can't be 100% sure unless I practice with exactly what I'm flinging at a deer.
 
JBrown said:
8% seems a little low on FOC... I think somewhere around 12% or higher is what most guys aim for... But I don't think the FOC is what caused your poor flight. That bent blade definitely had some/all to do with it. If I were you, I'd just shoot the normal blades for a practice round. Or at least shoot a couple shots with the real deal AFTER practicing with the practice blades, just to make sure they do indeed fly the same. A new set of blades or sharpening them is a small price to pay for confidence in your setup. For me personally, not being 100% sure about something is a no-go for my hunting rig... and I can't be 100% sure unless I practice with exactly what I'm flinging at a deer.
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I agree 100% about the bent blade...no doubt in my mind that's the major problem...The FOC info was more of a sanity check....I've seen charts and calculators that recommend 7-10%, 8-12%, etc...someone recommended the stickem archery calculator to me so that's just what I used...I think I've read and heard 8-12% more often though...Can't say thanks enough to you and Milo, Jesse and the others with helping me out here and Bowhunter57 for your offer to come up and personally help me out....

The work day can't end soon enough today!
 
bthompson1004 said:
I agree 100% about the bent blade...no doubt in my mind that's the major problem...The FOC info was more of a sanity check....I've seen charts and calculators that recommend 7-10%, 8-12%, etc...someone recommended the stickem archery calculator to me so that's just what I used...I think I've read and heard 8-12% more often though...Can't say thanks enough to you and Milo, Jesse and the others with helping me out here and Bowhunter57 for your offer to come up and personally help me out....

The work day can't end soon enough today!
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Make sure you keep us all posted on the progress. I think we're all curious to see how this works out for you. Hope you get it dialed in!
 
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