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Arrow flight question

bthompson1004 said:
I agree 100% about the bent blade...no doubt in my mind that's the major problem...The FOC info was more of a sanity check....I've seen charts and calculators that recommend 7-10%, 8-12%, etc...someone recommended the stickem archery calculator to me so that's just what I used...I think I've read and heard 8-12% more often though...Can't say thanks enough to you and Milo, Jesse and the others with helping me out here and Bowhunter57 for your offer to come up and personally help me out....

The work day can't end soon enough today!
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if you want a cheap and dirty way to check your arrow level ( or nock point location) stop by a local hardware and pick your self up a couple sets of string levels and uses a rubber band to attach them on your bow string and arrow. that will let you know if your arrow or nock point is a little off.

they look like these and can be in plastic or aluminum

st42-287.jpg
 
Have you ever paper tuned it yet? That usually shows what is wrong with the setup.... it always seem to work for me....
 
Milo said:
if you want a cheap and dirty way to check your arrow level ( or nock point location) stop by a local hardware and pick your self up a couple sets of string levels and uses a rubber band to attach them on your bow string and arrow. that will let you know if your arrow or nock point is a little off.

they look like these and can be in plastic or aluminum

st42-287.jpg
Click to expand...

That is a great idea and wish I had thought of that before I bought the R.S. Nok-EZ and Snap-on String Combo...I just bought 2 of those string levels for the deck I built this summer....Once I get a vise, I plan on checking those things for sure...got any cheap and dirty ways to hold a bow for maintanance?
 
"J" said:
Have you ever paper tuned it yet? That usually shows what is wrong with the setup.... it always seem to work for me....
Click to expand...

I will again after I shoot the broadheads and get rid of that bent practice head...before I start moving the nock point and/or the rest around.
 
Along the same lines as others have said I would say that the Muzzy is planing downward, likely due to a smaller diameter than the XX75's. You figure if it is a smaller diameter the arrow will point down more at the front when at full draw. That little bit combined with the steering of a fixed blade head will drive the arrow lower. Fix can be to adjust your rest up or lower your nocking point, all done while you do a little paper tuning.
 
bthompson1004 said:
That is a great idea and wish I had thought of that before I bought the R.S. Nok-EZ and Snap-on String Combo...I just bought 2 of those string levels for the deck I built this summer....Once I get a vise, I plan on checking those things for sure...got any cheap and dirty ways to hold a bow for maintanance?
Click to expand...

allthread that you screw into your stabilzer hole. or one of these vises

091162008355xl.jpg
 
I was thinking nock point too high because of the big difference in diameter from aluminums and the flatlines. Is your arrow going straight thru the rest (burger, booger, burger, whatever;)) button?
 
Beentown said:
I was thinking nock point too high because of the big difference in diameter from aluminums and the flatlines. Is your arrow going straight thru the rest (burger, booger, burger, whatever;)) button?
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What???


I think the nock point maybe a tad high as well, but I think this was definitely the bent blade.
 
its BERGER HOLE and a high nocking point can add to the negative effects of a bent blade.
 
It is called the berger button. lol I was just joking a bit. The Berger Hole (where you mount your rest) is a good starting point for where to setup your rest height. With single cams it seems the arrow should go straight through it. I know it is different with different designs but a great starting point. Milo knows a bunch more about it than I do...

I would think that a foot difference (if I remember correctly) at a short distance is more than just a bent blade. Hope you figure it out. Mine had MAJOR issues after taking it to places that know what they are doing ;)

And Milo got me shooting good again...(all together) THANKS MILO! lol

And now I see Milo has beat me to the punch and I missed it. Dang, I should finish typing before going to break one off... ;)
 
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Beentown said:
I was thinking nock point too high because of the big difference in diameter from aluminums and the flatlines. Is your arrow going straight thru the rest (burger, booger, burger, whatever;)) button?
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good question...I'm learning a lot as I go here, and everything so far is a new adventure for me, but I believe I am quickly putting things together largely due to the great information you brothers have afforded me...now that I know and understand what the BERGER BUTTON is I will be checking that...
 
or if you have a strong workbench you can do this

506127_front500.jpg



drill a hole in your bench and and a larger bolt with heavy washers and wing nuts....tighten to a work bench through the eyelet hole after you screw the eyebolt into you stabilizer hole. prolly only cost you 10 bucks
 
I would say it's mostly the bent blade. But only cause i wanna once again point out that slick tricks have 33-45% thicker blades than muzzy.... That is all. lmao
 
Milo said:
or if you have a strong workbench you can do this

506127_front500.jpg



drill a hole in your bench and and a larger bolt with heavy washers and wing nuts....tighten to a work bench through the eyelet hole after you screw the eyebolt into you stabilizer hole. prolly only cost you 10 bucks
Click to expand...

Hmmmmmm.....me rikey even more!!!
 
After messing around with my original 2 prong POS rest....One of the set screws fell out and landed under my deck (many lessons learned here)...So I'm not getting that back...I decided to put a whisker biscuit on my bow (you can give me crap for it, I'm expecting it) and installed it sometime last week...Thanks Milo for the table top clamp suggestion...it worked out perfect...so I got the bow in the vise, put the string level on and nocked an arrow...leveled the arrow, set the nocking point and adjusted left/right...

So i felt pretty good about getting getting everything set up...and last night I finally got some time to shoot and was pretty happy with the results...initial shots at 15yds w/broadhead missed low again...I'm just going to practice with the one broadhead for now...so I adjusted the sight down to see what that would do and it put me on the target pretty close to my mark...And I used the Lumenoks so I could see the flight path, and to my surprise the bottom isn't dropping out...apparently I just needed to adjust my sight...and that makes a lot of sense to me especially since I installed a new rest...I will continue shooting from 15yds until I get good groups with broadheads at that range...

So I'm obviously short on time here considering I want to be in the deer woods sooner than later...so from this point on what do you think the most efficient way to practice is? Any practice tips would be most helpful guys...thanks again for all the support...I know you guys are probably already setup and very busy with your hunts and I greatly appreciate any and all time you spend helping me out!
 
i generally find muzzy's need a lot of work on squaring the insert to get them to spin correctly. if you dont have field points and broadheads close, you need to get it right. Walk back tune first with field points. do that out to 40 yards and then it will be time to get the broadhead out and shoot. If you have done that step and ensured at brace your level bubble, you should be pretty close with heads and fields. if your not then you most likely have Bheads squareness issues.
 
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