TOO Projects Thread
- Thread starter bowhunter1023
- Start date
Ben the building looks great. If you plan on insulating the outside wall you man think on how I did my man cave walls.
I put up 2x6 horizontal between the 6X6 outside wall post every 24". Then I filled the 7" cavity with batting insulation, put up plastic vapor barrier, and screwed on 1/2" wood particle board. Since it's not heated full time I used wood wall inside covering and painted it satin white.
I put up 2x6 horizontal between the 6X6 outside wall post every 24". Then I filled the 7" cavity with batting insulation, put up plastic vapor barrier, and screwed on 1/2" wood particle board. Since it's not heated full time I used wood wall inside covering and painted it satin white.
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Buckmaster
Senior Member
My thoughts/plan thus far...
Sandwiched in between the wall girts and the sheet metal walls is 4" batten style insulation. The roof purlins/roof sheeting were treated with 6" insulation. The insulation is pretty tight and overlapped. I'm in debate whether to tape the seams or not since they overlap so nicely already.
I'm looking at taking the walls up to the bottom of my windows (about 9 feet) and completely finishing the gable ends from floor to ceiling.
2"x4" and 2"x6" studs (Treated against the floor), 24" on center, electrical and plumbing ran within, then sheeted with 5/8" or 3/4" tongue and groove OSB, primed, then painted in gloss white.
I won't say I am building another pole barn. I will say I am officially shopping hard right now though. Pricing it out. Got a number from Menards. Getting a price from Worch Lumber in Versailles. They have done a few buildings locally for people I know. Need to gather prices on pex for the floor and concrete.
Awaiting word from the bank. We have 2 out buildings on our property. With new govt regulations for banks and appraisers, they cannot add the value of outbuildings into the value of your property. You can have $100000 house with a $50000 building and they are not allowed to value at $150000. I am hearing appraisers might fudge a little and call it a $120000 house with no value to the outbuildings but not full value. Frustrating on my end. This means I need enough equity in my house to borrow for this. We refinanced two years ago to lower interest rate. Housing market was still real soft at the time. Need another appraisal or else we only have $20k in equity available (which won't build what I want.) Since I don't have $20-30k additional cash sitting around, I need a higher appraisal and I can NOT exceed budget. I anticipate $30-40k for this building. Buckmaster laughed and said it can't be done. He could be 100% right. I think it can be done, but I might have to do it in stages in order to do everything I want. Concrete and building this year. Pex pipe in floor this year. Next couple years (2-5yrs) save up for electric, insulation, and interior sheeting out of pocket. This would exceed my initial budget (putting me closer to BM Ben's price thoughts) but get me into the structure I want finished.
Absolute worst case scenario isn't all bad either. Worst case scenario involves adding onto the building we have on another property. Match the roof line, add on 56' (add on measured in 8' post distances with 4' on center roof trusses), and build it with one slider door on a gravel base. This would make my 30x40' building a total of 30x96'. The add on part would have pallet racking along all exterior walls except the wall with slider door. We could get equipment out of the elements and off the ground freeing up storage space in our other two cement floor buildings and the 30x40' cement floor structure already on that property. Not what I "want" but a cheaper compromise. Maybe we would only need to go 30x40 or 30x48'? Need to measure it out and see. Either route, it is always exciting planning and dreaming about "the ultimate shop builds" while doing it.
Awaiting word from the bank. We have 2 out buildings on our property. With new govt regulations for banks and appraisers, they cannot add the value of outbuildings into the value of your property. You can have $100000 house with a $50000 building and they are not allowed to value at $150000. I am hearing appraisers might fudge a little and call it a $120000 house with no value to the outbuildings but not full value. Frustrating on my end. This means I need enough equity in my house to borrow for this. We refinanced two years ago to lower interest rate. Housing market was still real soft at the time. Need another appraisal or else we only have $20k in equity available (which won't build what I want.) Since I don't have $20-30k additional cash sitting around, I need a higher appraisal and I can NOT exceed budget. I anticipate $30-40k for this building. Buckmaster laughed and said it can't be done. He could be 100% right. I think it can be done, but I might have to do it in stages in order to do everything I want. Concrete and building this year. Pex pipe in floor this year. Next couple years (2-5yrs) save up for electric, insulation, and interior sheeting out of pocket. This would exceed my initial budget (putting me closer to BM Ben's price thoughts) but get me into the structure I want finished.
Absolute worst case scenario isn't all bad either. Worst case scenario involves adding onto the building we have on another property. Match the roof line, add on 56' (add on measured in 8' post distances with 4' on center roof trusses), and build it with one slider door on a gravel base. This would make my 30x40' building a total of 30x96'. The add on part would have pallet racking along all exterior walls except the wall with slider door. We could get equipment out of the elements and off the ground freeing up storage space in our other two cement floor buildings and the 30x40' cement floor structure already on that property. Not what I "want" but a cheaper compromise. Maybe we would only need to go 30x40 or 30x48'? Need to measure it out and see. Either route, it is always exciting planning and dreaming about "the ultimate shop builds" while doing it.
Huckleberry Finn
Senior Member
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Adding on to pole barns is a nightmare, so pick a good contractor if you go that route. Especially if is the back end, which means that the front corner and face was built square and the fudging comes out in the back. That said, you can hide a lot with metal. Control your costs by picking demensions that meet the material length to save waste and cut time.
Get your walls up and roof on this year and worry about cement floor next year after the posts have settled. Insulation next year would be easy and that way you can run wire and hang insulation at your own pace on rainy days
Just some thoughts
Get your walls up and roof on this year and worry about cement floor next year after the posts have settled. Insulation next year would be easy and that way you can run wire and hang insulation at your own pace on rainy days
Just some thoughts
Your building looks great buckmaster! I just got everything laid out today for my garage. It's going to be 24x40. Then I'm connecting it to the house with a 12x12 breezeway with a small bathroom in it. I'm planning on starting tomorrow and getting all the holes dug.
And good thoughts they are. I appreciate it. I am really leaning towards Plan A which is a new structure on my property. Some costs are difficult to put to numbers. The costs saved by having a building on my property are a great example of a cost one cannot easily quantify. I don't want to say it is a control thing (although my foreman may disagree) BUT. . . Knowing I can walk out the backdoor of my house at any time and check in on the guys keeps them from dinking around. Being able to work on a truck, and walk 100yds to my house when I am done. . . sounds better than driving 10min each way only to realize the tool I need is in the shop at my house. Little things add up. Cost savings like NOT having to move a bunch of stuff add up. In the winter time is when we do a large percentage of our gross sales. Having a building we can park 3 trucks in which is heated, turn the key and roll. . .That is worth something. Freeing up some room in our existing shop so we can park a fourth truck in the other heated building is worth something. Having the taller garage doors to be able to pull a backhoe into to work on it in the winter is worth something. Adding onto the other building with a gravel floor. . . only adds cold storage. Like you said Huck, it isn't always as easy as it sounds either. I do think it would be an easy addition though. It is a basic 30x40. Extending out the gable end "shouldn't" be difficult. All we would be doing is extending the building.
Let's face it, in 20yrs I won't be doing this stuff. In 20yrs do I want one killer shop in my backyard to tinker on personal projects or do I want it 10min down the road? I am not ruling out adding onto the other building 5-6 miles from here. I am simply leaning towards adding onto that building in the future.
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I've been working on redoing our landscaping a little at a time all summer. Started with replacing the old cheap edging with professional grade edging, along with adding 50' of it to go around the side of the house that's never bad landscaping. I replaced all the plants a couple months ago, the hostas being the only exception. Today I tackled the retaining wall that was in need of some TLC.
Started by taking all the blocks out and power washing them. Once that was done, I removed a bunch of the dirt that was pushing on the wall to relieve some stress. After that I used some spare sacrete to lay a nice footer, then made sure I got the first row level (with a slight pitch inward and from front to back. I back filled the bottom 3 layers with some spare 57s from the driveway to help with drainage, the finished it off. One of the issues is a leaky gutter that over flows right in the middle of the wall. Tomorrow I'll fix that. The wall should be good to go for a while now...
Kinda hard to see, but the wall was leaning forward and had some separation on the right side.
Next up is gutter repair, power washing gutters and soffit for paint, then cleaning and staining the decks. I'll be ready for mulch after that's done.
Started by taking all the blocks out and power washing them. Once that was done, I removed a bunch of the dirt that was pushing on the wall to relieve some stress. After that I used some spare sacrete to lay a nice footer, then made sure I got the first row level (with a slight pitch inward and from front to back. I back filled the bottom 3 layers with some spare 57s from the driveway to help with drainage, the finished it off. One of the issues is a leaky gutter that over flows right in the middle of the wall. Tomorrow I'll fix that. The wall should be good to go for a while now...
Kinda hard to see, but the wall was leaning forward and had some separation on the right side.
Next up is gutter repair, power washing gutters and soffit for paint, then cleaning and staining the decks. I'll be ready for mulch after that's done.
Nice thing about the landscape brick is ease of install and adds way more value than you spent.... Looks good Jesse....
Buckmaster
Senior Member
Its been a while since I posted my summer project.
I've been steadily busy when I have time in between my football commitments.
Exterior has been completed. Interior build out completed.
I have a few plumbing and electrical things to tidy up this week.
I've already laid down 11 gallons of oil based primer on the walls. I ordered another 5 gallon bucket from Sherwin Williams which will be in on Weds so primer painting will resume next weekend.
Top it off with a couple weekends of top coating and then backyard installation and landscape. I'm racing against the clock for my personal Sept 26th deadline.
I've been steadily busy when I have time in between my football commitments.
Exterior has been completed. Interior build out completed.
I have a few plumbing and electrical things to tidy up this week.
I've already laid down 11 gallons of oil based primer on the walls. I ordered another 5 gallon bucket from Sherwin Williams which will be in on Weds so primer painting will resume next weekend.
Top it off with a couple weekends of top coating and then backyard installation and landscape. I'm racing against the clock for my personal Sept 26th deadline.
